Tom O June 25, 2018 for Model Number WED9151YW0 I just replaced the faulty heating element on my dryer. The thermal limiter and fuse tested ok. After putting back together I can hear the slight switch sound but then nothing when I hit the start button. Then got PF power failure code, rest the breaker for 2 minutes and same result and code. Is there a certain placement for the two wires for the thermal limiter switch? Thinking may have them reversed.Thank you
1 Answer Tom, It should not matter which wire is connected to which terminal on the thermal limiter as this is a pass through part. It would be recommended to check to make sure that there are no damaged or broken wiring on the unit. Read More...
Philip M January 25, 2018 for Model Number WED9300VU0 on your video when replace the heating element, it shows the red wire on top tab and red and white wire on bottom tab. The unit I have on removing the element the red and white is on the top tab and red on the bottom tab. Do I put back on the same way I took them off? Can You help me? Thank You Philip
1 Answer Phillip, Yes you can reconnect the wires the same way that they came off your unit. Read More...
J.Patrick October 29, 2017 for Model Number MEDB400VQ0 When the dryer calls for heat, the lights in the house will dim / blink.Tell me it's something simple.
1 Answer J. Patrick, This would most likely have something to do with the wiring in the home that would have the lights dimming. Read More...
Tom April 26, 2017 for Model Number MEDB200VQ0 It is usually a good idea to replace the thermal fuse and high limit temp switch when replacing the element? I have tested continuity on all 3 and the heating element has no continuity so I know it is the cause of no heat. I haven't pulled out the element housing to open it yet to make sure (see the break). I'm just curious as to why the element burned out when the thermal fuse is usually the cause. The vent is clear.
Matt December 30, 2016 for Model Number MEDB200VQ1 Can I test for continuity by using multi-meter probes to the the two lugs (connecting tabs) where the two red power wires are. From the back of the dryer unit.( I don't want to take the whole thing apart, just yet. Ive checked the fuse and tests good for continuity. Also part 51 for ohms and tested @ 12k ohms. No heat is the issue. Any other items to test?
Tom March 10, 2016 I have a Magtag Bravos MEDB400VQ0. I changed out the heating element and Thermal fuse Thermostat and it still overheats. Now it is flashing code F23. What is wrong with this thing? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Tom, You will need to refer to the tech sheet which states F-23 indicates the Exhaust Thermistor is shorted. See TEST #4a, page 6 of the tech sheet. TEST #3 Motor Circuit: This test will check the wiring to the motor and the motor itself. The following items are part of this motor system: – Harness/ – Centrifugal switch connection – Door switch – Thermal fuse – Machine control – Belt/belt switch electronics. 1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. 2. Access the machine control electronics and measure the resistance across P8-4 and P9-1. If resistance across P8-4 and P9-1 is in the range of 1 to 6 O, replace the machine control electronics. Otherwise, go to step 3. 3. Check the wiring and components in the path between these measurement points by referring to the appropriate wiring diagram. 4. Perform TEST #4b, page 6. If thermal fuse is OK, continue with step 5. 5. Check the belt switch and drive motor. Access the belt switch and drive motor by removing the back panel. Slowly remove the drum belt from the spring loaded belt switch tension pulley, gently letting the pulley down. Remove the white connector from the drive motor switch. 7. Remove the bare copper wire terminal from pin 5 of black drive motor switch. Check for the resistance values of the motor’s Main and Start winding coils as shown on the tech sheet. NOTE: Main and Start winding coils must be checked at the motor. If the resistance at the motor is correct, there is an open circuit between the motor and machine control electronics. Check for failed belt switch. If the Start winding resistance is much greater than 3 O, replace the motor. 9. Check the belt switch by measuring resistance between the two blue wires, while pushing up the belt switch tension pulley. If the resistance reading goes from infinity to a few ohms as pulley arm closes the switch, belt switch is OK. If not, replace the belt switch. If belt switch is OK and there is still an open circuit, check and repair the wiring harness. 10. Door switch problems can be uncovered by following procedure under DIAGNOSTIC: Door Switch; however, if this was not done, the following can be done without applying power to the dryer. Connect an ohmmeter across P8-3 (neutral, white wire) and P8-4 (door, tan wire). With the door properly closed, the ohmmeter should indicate a closed circuit (0–2 O). If not, replace the door switch assembly. Read More...
Brooke January 24, 2016 for Model Number MED6000XG2 My dryer was overheating and making a loud noise - now it takes at least 5-6 times of running the dryer at 45 min each to get the clothes dry. I checked another load and there is barely any heat coming out. Please help!
1 Answer Hello Brooke. You need to determine where the noise was coming from. As for the no heat, Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Tim November 30, 2015 for Model Number MEDB850WQ0 I have a maytag bravos mct dryer medb850wq0 that will not heat 2- 3yrs old I have removed the back found the element how do I check it And is there any thing I should check first like a fuse?
1 Answer Hello Tim. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Bob September 28, 2015 for Model Number WED7800XWO What is the easiest way to clean out lint from inside the dryer case?
Scott August 27, 2015 for Model Number wed7300xwo My dryer no longer heats up. We had a repairman come out and check first he said it was one thing and changed a part but it still didn't work, came another day and changed some other parts and still l no heat. He finally said it was probably the control board and ordered that part and then came out a third time to install it. Still no heat. He says unrepairable at this point. Is this something that happens a lot? Dryer is only about 3 years old.
1 Answer Hello Scott. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...