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Customer Questions and Answers for Dishwasher Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM17070462
Manufacturer Part Number: W10518394

The Dishwasher Heating Element is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool dishwashers. It is a vital heating component that raises water temperatures sufficiently for sanitizing dishes during hot rinse cycles. Proper heat is essential to drying fully.

Causes of a bad heating element can include scaling or mineral deposition over time that insulates it from conducting heat. Physical damage like burnouts or breaks in coils/wires are also possible.

Symptoms of a faulty element are:

  • Dishes failing to get fully dry at the end of cycles
  • Low wash water temperatures
  • Buzzing, clicking or strange noises from under the dishwasher

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and other Whirlpool-manufactured dishwashers. 

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element (Part Number: OEM17070462)

Zoey for Model Number WDF530PAYM4

When reading reviews of people who replaced the dishwaser heater unit (Whirlpool AP5690151 / W10518394 Heater) I noticed that some people also purchased two rubber washers (AP6010750). Some people said they weren't sure if they needed the additional washers or not, and the people that said they did need them appeared to have a different dishwasher model than mine (Whirlpool WDF530PAYM4). How do I know if I need the washers or not? I'm hoping that by knowing my dishwasher model you would be able to tell me if I need them or not? Also, I've read some reviews on other websites that people replaced their heating unit and it melted the bottom of the dishwasher. What would cause that? I want to make sure that doesn't happen to me!

Av for Model Number WDF330PAHS0

Hi All, My dishwasher stopped heating water. Looking at the heating element I so it was cracked so I replaced it (ol one had no continuity, new one reads 15ohms) but to my surprise, this did nothing ... still not heat ... I probed the Limit thermostat and it reads 6/7 ohms, no OL then ... from the board where the electrical wire leave, I read around 15 to 20 ohms too. I don't know what is going on. I looked at the PCBA ... looked fine... not sure how to probe the relays (there is one on L and N line). Any clues?

1 Answer

Av, With the heater having been replaced and the thermostat being good then this would be a faulty control board. The control board can be tested for 120 Vac coming off the board to the heater.

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1 Answer

Kayla, There is a thermostat that you will want to test for continuity. If the thermostat checks ok then check to make sure that the wiring is good. If this checks ok then the issue will be a faulty control board.

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1 Answer

Hello Kirk, you need to run the Service diagnostics cycle to find the cause the control board is not powering the heater, The control board will disable the heater if it detects certain other problems. There is a test sheet under/behind the kickplate, run the test and observe the codes, there may be up to 4 fault codes, the test is started with the door open, press any 3 keypads in sequence 3x, (1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3) close door and test starts.

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1 Answer

Nathan, Test the thermostat on the unit for continuity. If there is no continuity then this would need to be replaced. If it does have continuity then the issue will be a faulty control board.

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1 Answer

Hello Steven the control board needs to be reset with the Service cycle when that code appears,To start the Service Diagnostics Cycle, press the following keys, in order, in less than 6 seconds, while in standby: Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal. Let the test finish out. If the code appears again then the main control board WP8564547 is faulty and the board is discontinued and no longer available.

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1 Answer

Steffan, the control board can be tested during a heating portion of the cycle at connection P4 pin 3 to connection P4 pin 4 for 120VAC. way to check is to disconnect power from the dishwasher and remove one of the connectors from the control. Once a connector is removed, test the same wires for resistance and it should measure between 8 to 30 ohms. If the resistance is good, then the main control W10804120 would be the culprit. If the resistance reads 0L, then there would likely be a wiring issue that would need to be traced and repaired or the wire harness W10537905 would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Mary, If your model number is actually WDT730PAHB0 you will need to check to see if 120Vac is going to the heater assembly during the heating cycle. If not, you will need to replace the control W11305308.

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1 Answer

Nonnie, In the heater circuit, you only have the control, heater and a tco. The tco is a thermal cut out that is wired in series with the heater. Meaning that if it fails the heater will not function. You can follow the violet with white stripe wire from the heater you will find the tco. A simple continuity test can be done on the tco and you would be looking for a closed reading. This tco has a reset button that you can push if the reading shows open. If found open you should replace the main control board. WD21X22276 Please use all parts in the kit or the same result could happen.

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