Customer Questions and Answers for Dishwasher Heating Element by Whirlpool

Hello Kelly, you'll want to verify the high limit thermostat part number WP661566 shows continuity, if not replace it. If the thermostat test good, you might have to replace the board part number W10804120. Hope this helps!

Hello Ryan, You should check the high limit thermostat WP661566 under the unit that is in line with the heating element. If this is good, you will most likely need to replace the control board W11413274.

Howard, For the model # provided you have the electronic control, the hi limit thermostat and a temperature thermistor as part of the heater circuit. i would use a multi meter to check each of these to locate the issue.

Ivan, you would want to test the heating circuit for resistance from the connector P4 at the control. You will want to test pin 3 and 4 together {blue wire with red stripe on both), and the resistance reading should be between 8 to 30 ohms. If the resistance is not within that range, then you may have a bad heater. If there is no resistance reading at all, then you may have a bad wire connection or broken wire. If the resistance is within tolerance, then you will want to test the turbidity sensor at connection P12 of the control. From pin 1 to pin 3 of the connection, the sensor should read betwen 46 to 52 ohms at room temperature. If the resistance is lower, then you have a bad sensor that is telling the control it is warmer than it should be. Another issue that can occur is an empty jet dry chamber as jet dry assists with the drying of dishes. If these all check good, then you may potentially have a bad control.

Kiley, There are many reasons for this from rinse aid to element not receiving voltage. We will need your model number to help you find the right parts for your unit. Please post another question with all your info included thank you.

Forguens, there should be a thermal fuse that is in line for the heater. If this fuse has opened, it will prevent the heater from receiving the voltage needed to heat. This fuse can be tested for continuity and if it is good, it should have continuity from one connector to the other connector.

Rob, if the sanitizer light is flashing rapidly, then this is an indicator of a stuck or shorted key. For this, you would want to replace the control [W10804111].

Hello Luke, The control board for the model provided is W10479763. This will correct the issue if the door switch and harness have no issues. The five components of the heating circuit are the heating element, the high limit thermostat, the door switch, the control board, and the wiring harness. The door switch will cause an issue if the dishwasher is not firmly mounted and properly leveled. Properly leveled includes all four feet sharing the weight of the dishwasher.

Erick, one thing you can check is the turbidity (OWI) sensor, at room temperature it should read 46-52 ohms. Aside from that, you will want to test if the control is sending voltage to the heater when the heated dry option is selected. The control should send 120VAC to the heater. Another thing to check for is ensuring the rinse aid dispenser is full.

Luke, the location of the wires are not necessarily going to make a difference as the thermostat is used to complete a circuit and the heater is a load drawing power to heat.