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Customer Questions and Answers for Range Oven Igniter by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18034056
Manufacturer Part Number: WP7432P136-60

If your oven won't heat or igniter glows but gas won't light, the igniter is likely weak. This is a common DIY repair taking 15-30 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Range Oven Igniter (Part Number: OEM18034056)

1 Answer

Shawn, The bake element is a different part number WP7432P136-60. It could work for testing if it connects but you should replace with the correct part number if you prove that to be the problem.

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1 Answer

Pat, not really, The 74007498 is the broil burner igniter and the WP7432P136-60 is the bake burner igniter. Both igniters are relatively the same, except for the wiring connectors/connections. The bake igniter has a different wiring connector than the broil igniter. You'll want to order and install the proper igniter on the proper burner tube. Thanks,

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1 Answer

Steve, The number on the part is a manufacturers number for ordering from their distributor but the WP7432P136-60 will be the correct part for your unit.

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John for Model Number MGS5770ADC

serial # 11459189ZF Hi. Trying to figure out if lack of (and slow) oven heating, and occasional gas smell is due to the ignitor, or the gas valve. There are two oven ignitors listed, but no specification to top or bottom. Which is the correct OEM ignitor part for the lower/oven? The lower ignitor does come on and glows strong, but won't trigger gas flow even when the oven reaches 150 deg. Seems most the oven heat is being supplied by the electrical coil. I'm thinking that could indicate a bad gas valve, but it works fine for the broiler. Or, are there two gas valves used in this model? Also, the front right (high burner) doesn't click or ignite. All four burners ignite at the same time, so this one will ignite if you turn one of the other burners to ignition. I presume the ignitor switch is the problem. A few times, it will function properly. But, there seems to be at least 3, maybe 4 different types of switches, and no specific one for the series 11. Which is the correct switch to order?

1 Answer

John, For this issue with the oven then this would most likely be caused by the oven safety valve which is part number WP74006427 For the top burner then this would be an ignition switch and the part number for the switch will be WP7403P287-60.

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Olga for Model Number AGR5735QDS

My broiler and stove top work great on my gas range. Oven won't heat up though. I figured it was the oven heating ignitor. Decided I'd order a new one, and while I waited, I'd swap out the ignitor from the broiler and use it in place of the oven ignitor. When i went to pull out the broiler ignitor the connection between the ignitor element wiring and the red wire was completely melted (yikes!). So, although it was working fine, I'm replacing that ignitor as well. So now, no ignitors at all - two coming in the mail. My question: the red wire that was connected to my broiler ignitor - the connection melted. Do I need to order a new part, or can i find the right splicer at the hardware store? Thanks, Olga

1 Answer

Hello Olga, This will work as long as the wires are long enough. You will most likely have to use ceramic wire nuts on both since few of these are retrofit.

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1 Answer

Matt, Yes, the oven igniters can become intermittent and operate erratically. In some cases, if you look at the carborundum (dark portion) of the igniter closely, you can see a white colored spot or line in the surface. This is where there is a hair line crack in the assembly, and once the igniter heats and expands a few times, the circuit is broken and the igniter ceases to operate. The other "unseen" issue is in the white porcelain portion of the igniter. The wires from the end connector to the carborundum portion, are molded into the ceramic case, if the wires develop a "hidden" weak spot inside the casing, it will resistance check properly when "cold" but once voltage and amperage passes through the wire, it will separate and the igniter will cease working. You really can't tell unless you observe the igniter under operation and or conduct an amperage or low voltage test at the safety valve on the range. In the event of erratic oven temperatures, low oven temperatures and the like, the igniter accounts for 95 % of these issues and is the first place to start/repair.

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John S for Model Number ACF3335AC

I noticed that on the appliance I received, the white fabric enclosing the wire for the ignitor was not present. (When the two ignitors are sitting next to one another in the video, one of them has this white fabric around the wire, the other doesn't.) I'm replacing the ignitor right now and I'm wondering if I need to somehow transfer this white enclosing fabric from the wires of the old ignitor to my new ignitor? Or can I just put in the new ignitor exactly as it came?

1 Answer

John, You do not have to transfer the wire wrap you can just install as it is. They put that on some units and not others.

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1 Answer

Hello Cheryl, You will want check the oven ignitor. If you do an amp draw on the ignitor you should have between 3.2 and 3.6 amps. If you do not then replace ignitor. Also check to make sure ignitor is getting 120 vac to like. If there is 120vac but the ignitor is not glowing then ignitor WP7432P136-60 needs to be replaced.

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