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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Igniter by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18111615
Manufacturer Part Number: W10918546

The Oven Igniter is an OEM part for Whirlpool ovens responsible for igniting the gas burner that heats the oven. It works by drawing electrical current through the igniter filament, heating it to a high temperature until it glows and ignites the gas to start the cooking process.

Symptoms of a failing Oven Igniter include:

  • Oven not heating up at all
  • Igniter glowing without igniting the gas
  • Weak flame or delayed ignition
  • Increased gas smell  

Causes of a bad Oven Igniter can range from normal wear and tear, which reduces the igniter's efficiency over time, to physical damage or a buildup of dirt and grease that can interfere with its operation. A malfunctioning igniter can lead to uneven cooking, wasted gas, and in some cases, safety hazards due to the accumulation of gas without ignition.

This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.
 

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Igniter (Part Number: OEM18111615)

1 Answer

Steve, You would need to test the oven ignitor for 3.2 to 3.6 amps. This most likely will not be an issue with the igniter and would be recommended to test the oven sensor. The resistance of the sensor should be 1090 ohms at room temp and 1654 at 350 degrees. If the sensor is good then the control board will be the most likely cause for this issue.

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1 Answer

Hello Melvin, If the power to the unit has been verified, make sure connections are good at the terminal block and there are no burned spots on the plug prongs which would indicate a loose receptacle. If these check good, replace the control WPW10312660.

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1 Answer

Troy, the most accurate way to test this ignitor would be to test for amps. This ignitor should draw between 3.2 to 3.6 amps as it gets to the final heat stage. If the ignitor does not draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps, it will not allow the correct voltage to reach the valve. Amp draw measurements are more accurate than the resistance check due to the resistance range being within a range of 40 to 400 ohms of resistance.

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1 Answer

Bobby, at the back of your oven, the only panel you should need to remove to get to the harness is the lower back panel.

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1 Answer

Ray, No, there is no "proving thermocouple" in the oven ignition circuit. If the igniter W10918546 doesn't glow at all, it is most likely a cracked or broken glow bar igniter. When you make a selection and input a temperature, 120 VAC is supplied to the igniter and it should glow, The resistance in the igniter, drops the voltage to 3.2 to9 3.6 VAC across the terminals on the gas valve(it also draws 3.2 to 3.6 amps, if you have an ammeter) the low voltage/amp draw causes the interior bi metal switch to open and ignition occurs.

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1 Answer

Jackie, You will want to leave the gas off until the repair is completed on your unit.

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