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Customer Questions and Answers for Range Oven Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18029217
Manufacturer Part Number: WP5701M796-60

Fix an oven that won't heat, shuts down during cooking, or has a blank display. This control board manages temperature regulation and oven functions.

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$419.50
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$499.20
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$79.70

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Range Oven Control Board (Part Number: OEM18029217)

1 Answer

Yen, Try to disconnect the power to the unit for about 20 minutes. If the noise continues after power is restored then most likely you would have a stuck key that is causing the beeping noise and would need to replace the control board part number WP5701M796-60.

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Rgi for Model Number JDR8895AAS

My Jenn air JDR8895AAS lower heat element burned out. I replaced it but only the upper element heats. I tested the power on the back and confirmed the power never gets to the heating element. The upper element tested positive confirming I was testing it correctly. I think the problem is in the board that the Electronic Clock Oven Control is connected to. I don't see the board sold separately. Are they sold as a unit or do I have to replace both? (The upper oven controls work as expected) Thanks in advance.

1 Answer

Hello RGI. It sounds like the control board WP5701M796-60 is bad on the unit. Make sure all the wiring is good on the unit. If so, replace the control board on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve, The first thing to consider is the temperature sensor 12001656. It should read about 1100 ohms of resistance at room temperature, (about 70°F). If it reads properly, the control WP5701M796-60 would be suspect. The relay on the control may not be making continuity every time it closes, causing the problem.

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Dan G. for Model Number JDR8895AAS

The broiler for the lower over has never worked, but I ignored it too long and the warranty is long expired. I figured they just missed wiring it or something like that. I finally pulled off the back and checked for power to the element when broil is on and there is none. I checked again at the pins in the logic board and again, no power is applied. I do get readings for the other elements so I think my test is valid. Is there a cheaper solution than replacing the whole $320 board?

1 Answer

Hello Dan, If the voltage is getting to the board but not back out of it, the only option to repair the unit is replacing the board WP5701M796-60.

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1 Answer

Harvey, The "1D12" error code, indicates an issue with the oven temperature sensor 12001656 " 1D12 > Runaway temp (650°F), door unlocked". You'll need to check the sensor resistance (1050 to 1100 ohms) at room temperature. you'll also want to test the resistance at the clock connector (White/P21 across pins 5 and 7 on the harness connector). Both the elements "cycle" when the oven is in the bake mode, during both the pre heat and bake program. If there is constant power to the broil element after 15 or 20 minutes of a cycle, then consider the ERC WP5701M796-60.

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1 Answer

Hello Jeff, This can be the high limit thermostat 74009969, the clock assembly WP5701M796-60, or a loose electrical connection that lost electrical continuity under the load. Since you saw a spark behind the clock, I would first suspect the clock assembly.

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Maryb for Model Number Jenn Aire JDR8895AAB dual fuel range

My oven won't turn off. I have to turn the breaker off to get the element to go off. It is the element behind the convection fan that stays on. At present, all the other elements seem to work, altho I am not using it much. I took the back off and found 3 things. 1st, there was a mouse skeleton with a bunch of fur on the main power supply. My guess is that it bridged the red and white posts and electrocuted itself some time ago. 2nd is the control board has a bad charred spot at the base of the white thing on the upper left corner viewing it from the back of the stove. The base of the white thing is melted and there is a fair amount of soot behind the board. I'm assuming this means I need a new board. I did run the cleaning cycle on both ovens a week or 2 ago. The 3rd thing has me puzzled. My volt meter shows continuity between the white neutral post and the metal cover behind all the wires. When I put power back on, it showed 110 volts between the post and metal. Does this mean there is still another problem I haven't found? I looked but could find no frayed wires to account for the current. Is this normal or still part of the problem? Seems dangerous. Thank you for any help.

1 Answer

Hello MaryB. Sounds like the control board is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit based on the test you did.

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