Customer Questions and Answers for Magnetron by Whirlpool

Hello Mildred. You will need a torx safety tamper proof bit TJ32510 to remove those screws.

Hello Buzzo, This can be one of several issues. It can be a low voltage issue where the high voltage circuit is never being supplied voltage, (magnetron TCO) or it can be in the high voltage circuit, (HV diode, HV capacitor, HV transformer, magnetron). I have located some technical information on it that is too lengthy to include in this format. If you could please re-post with an e-mail address, we can send this information to you.

Hello Jennifer. Yes, it sounds like the door switch is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Café. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

Hello Joe. Check for a shorted wire or a bad H.V. transformer.

Hello Wayne. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifyer should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no reistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulry diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary wonding should read 80 ohms resitance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

Hello Vince, When the unit is run with no load, the microwaves can bounce around inside the unit and go back into the magnetron. This destroys the magnetron tube (AP3135931). It will most likely have to be replaced.

Hello Jagu, The unit has a few components that would cause it not to heat. You would want to check the thermal fuse, diode, transformer, magnetron. Any one of these parts can cause failure of the unit not heating.

Hello Paul. Based on the test you provided, you need to replace the diode and the magnetron W10859575 in the unit.

Hi. The magnetron is part # W10859575. The diode is not available. The capacitor is part 59001171. When measuring the board output to the transformer primary side ONLY for 120 vac. From then on you only ohm check components. The magnetron terminals should ohm to 1-ohm. Look at the side magnets to see if they are cracked and/or if the magnetron tip is burnt. The capacitor stores high voltage and is a dangerous part. It's job is to make the firing time more efficient with less lag firing time. The diode ohms out closed one way and open the other way. If it reads either conditions both ways then it is bad. Make sure incoming line voltage is correct before testing rise in temperature issues. Procedure 1. Fill the test container to the 1000 ml line with cool tap water. NOTE: Water temperature should be approximately 60°F / 16°C 2. Using the thermometer, stir water for five to ten seconds; measure, and record the temperature (T1). 3. Place test container of water in the center of oven cavity and close door. 4. Heat the water for a 33-second full power cycle. NOTE: Use a digital watch or a watch with a second hand for ovens with electromechanical timers. 1. At end of the cycle, remove test container. Using the thermometer, stir water for five to ten seconds and record temperature (T2). 2. Subtract the starting water temperature (T1), from the ending water temperature (T2) to obtain the temperature rise (?T). 3. If the temperature rise (?T) meets or exceeds the minimum, the test is complete. If the temperature rise (?T) fails to meet the minimum temperature rise, test the line voltage to verify it is correct. Then repeat steps 1-6 making sure to change the water. If the temperature rise (?T) fails to meet the minimum temperature rise again the oven will require service. Thank You.