Customer Questions and Answers for Direct Drive Washer Motor by Whirlpool

Hello Champ. Yes, the red wire is used to start the motor. You will need to repair the red wire for the motor to work and run.

DT, You'll need to remove the cabinet and tub cover, and check for an article stuck between the tubs, then remove the pump and motor, and check the drive coupling 285753A for bent, broken or missing legs. If all's OK, you'll need to check the clutch and brake assemblys for excess wear and tear 285785 and 285438. You forgot to attach a model number, so these are the more common and basic checks for a Whirlpool direct drive washer, with spin issues.

Hello Louis, The "battery pack" is actually a capacitor. This is necessary for the motor to start and run properly. You need to open the unit and see if the motor is actually turning. If it is, you either have a brake stuck, a clutch slipping, or a bad gearcase. If the motor isn't turning, you have a situation where the motor is getting 120Vac from two separate circuits at the same time. This can be a bad fabric selector switch, a bad timer, a bad wiring harness, or a bad motor or capacitor. This would be determined with a test meter and you would trace the wire color back to the source. I'm sorry I cannot go into more detail, but there is no model number listed. The wiring diagram changes from model to model so it isn't possible to continue with a diagnosis without "guessing".

Hello Beach boy. If the unit pumps out, but does not agitate or spin, you need to check and see if the motor coupling 285753A is bad and needs to be replaced in the unit.

Hello Shane. We will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

Hello Steve, This sounds like you could either have a bad start winding in the motor WP661600, a shorted wiring harness 3955015, or more than one source of 120Vac going to the motor, (shorted harness or stuck contacts in the timer).

Hello Jodie. First check the motor coupling 285753A and make sure it is not broken or bad on the unit. If not, the when the unit gets ready to agitate or spin, it is dead, you need to check and see if the lid switch 3949247V is bad on the unit and needs to be replaced. It should read closed for continuity with the lid down. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Tx, First, was the drain pump mounted or dismounted when you tested the motor, you need it dismounted to verify the pump is not the issue. Since you tested the circuits, and tried a new motor, your issue is in A) the wiring so check foor loose connections and shoted or pinched wires. B) the timer WP8546685 (most likely) based on your post description. Thanks

Hello Richard. If the motor is getting hot and locking up, you will need to replace the motor WP661600 in the unit. Hope this helps.

Hello Curtis. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the clutch 285785 is bad in the washer and will need to be replaced. if the unit is spinning, but is slipping and not spinning fast enough, you will need to replace the clutch on the unit. Hope this helps.