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Customer Questions and Answers for Overload (Compressor) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9325425
Manufacturer Part Number: 4387535

This compressor overload is the thermal protector for your refrigerator's compressor. It opens the circuit when the motor overheats or draws excessive current, helping prevent damage and restoring reliable starts when the original protector fails.

  • Interrupts power to protect the compressor during overheat or overcurrent conditions
  • If failed, symptoms include: compressor won't start, repeated clicking or brief hum then stop, warm refrigerator/freezer, and an unusually hot compressor shell
  • A weak protector may trip repeatedly and reset after cooling, causing intermittent cooling
  • Works in tandem with the start relay/device to manage compressor startup current
What's included: 1 compressor overload protector Install notes:
  • Disconnect power before servicing and pull the unit forward for rear access
  • Remove the rear cover; note wire positions and take a photo for reference
  • Pull the old overload straight off the compressor terminal; transfer leads and firmly seat the new overload in the same orientation
  • Capacitors can retain a charge—handle with care; reinstall cover and restore power to test

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Overload (Compressor) (Part Number: OEM9325425)

1 Answer

Minor, Hello, your red wire goes to the overload, your white goes to the run windings on the relay and blue goes to the start on the relay.

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Jim for Model Number 106.9550781

Over a period of 18 months, I have replaced: cold control, defrost timer, defrost thermostat, verified defrost element was working over this time span. (yes, I thoroughly cleaned condenser coils and verified condenser fan and evaporator fan working.) After each of the above, it would work and hold correct temps for several weeks, then warm up. Turning off for an hour and back on and it would be fine. A temp recorder verified temps were holding over 4-5 days and also showed short term spike in temp during defrost cycle every 10 to 12 hrs. I finally, realized evaporator coils were only frosty a couple inches from the bottom. I installed a vampire tap and added 1/2 can of R-134-A freon. Following additon of freon, evaporator coils became uniformly frosty. I installed a plexiglass "window" in the tin cover in back of freezer. This allowed me to routinely "see" evaporator coils and confirm uniformly frosty. Temps held (verified with temp recorder) for more than a month during hot July and August. Then it failed again. Turning off for 1/2 hr and back on, it started working and continues now for a week. Could the overload relay be the problem and only fail intermittently? Through all of this, we avoided food spoilage due to a spare refrigerator in the basement. Although it is ugly green color, it has never even burped in 36 yrs and condenser coils have gone for many years without cleaning. For 18 yrs, this green machine was in the same location as the present Kenmore before be relegated to the basement.

1 Answer

Jim, if you add R134A to a R-12 system it will contaminate the freon and it will not run properly. A start device on a compressor can fail but the compressor will not run if it fails and it would have to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Walter. You will need to order WPW10151374 for the diffuser if it is stuck open and allowing the refrigerator to get to cold. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Hello Mike. Using a good multi-meter set on ohms, remove the compressor terminal cover with the unit off. Touch one lead (of the meter) to one terminal and the other lead (of the meter) to one other terminal and record your reading . Lets call these terminals (A) and (B). The remaining terminal lets call (C) So for example A-B=5 Ohms Now lets read A-C and record. Lets say 7 Ohms Now lets read C-B and record. Lets say 13 Ohms Now lets add all the A’s= 12 Ohms Now lets add all the B’s=18 Ohms Now lets add all the C’s=20 Ohms The highest reading will be the “Start” winding The next highest reading will be the “Run” winding The lowest reading will be the “Common” winding Therefore B= “Run” The next is C=”Start” The remaining terminal A= “Common”

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1 Answer

Hello Mike. It looks like the red goes to the overload, blue to the start terminal of the relay and white to the run terminal of the relay.

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1 Answer

David, The unit trying to run is typically a indication that the relay would need to be replaced again. If once the relay is replaced, if the issue continues to occur then this will be a compressor issue.

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1 Answer

Hello George, First verify voltage to the outlet the unit is plugged into. If good, verify voltage to the cold control WP2198202. This is the most common cause of the symptom when the fans and compressor fail to start.

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1 Answer

Elisa, The overload/relay is for the compressor operation and will turn the compressor on when signal is sent to it. With the symptoms of the unit shutting off and then once unplugged and plugged back in, the issue would most likely be with the defrost timer which is part number W10822278.

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