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Customer Questions and Answers for Pump And Motor Assembly by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18072192
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10780877

The Pump and Motor Assembly is an OEM part for Whirlpool dishwashers. This part is responsible for circulating water during the wash cycle and draining water at the end of the cycle.  

Causes of a bad assembly can include blockages from debris, electrical failures, or wear and tear from regular use.  

Symptoms of a bad Pump and Motor Assembly include:

  • Dishes remaining dirty after a wash cycle
  • Water not draining properly from the dishwasher
  • Unusual noises during operation
  • Error codes related to water flow or pump performance

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Pump And Motor Assembly (Part Number: OEM18072192)

1 Answer

Hi. Remove the lower rack. Remove the lower wash arm and the top cover. Look to see if there is debris stuck in the chopper blade making it squeal. If the chopper blade is damaged it is part # W10083957V. If the sensor gasket is leaking on the bottom of the tub leaks then it is part # WPW10705575. Thank You.

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John S for Model Number gu3600 whirlpool

Unit has low circulation...the soap dispenser does not even get washed, or anything on top....the arms are not plugged.....the middle arm is plugging in ok, the receptical just below is closed...I removed 3 screws on inside bottom at the fine filter but was unable to disassemble to look for obstruction....now I realize the sump/pump/motor are a complete assembly.....should I verify no obstruction first or get a pump repair kit...a circ pump...circ pump and motor?

1 Answer

John, Before you replace the pump assembly, Check for a proper water level in the bottom of the tub. Start the dishwasher, allow it to fill and start washing for 3 to 5 minutes and unlatch the door. Remove the lower rack, the water should be in contact with the bottom of the heater element. if not there is not enough water in the dishwasher, it won't produce the pressure to properly clean, especially in the upper rack area.You may want to consider the water inlet valve, first WP8531669. Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello, the motor is rated at .24 Horsepower and it is 3380 r.p.m. Hope this helps!

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Kevin for Model Number du1055xtsq2

Dishwasher made loud grinding noise then smelt burning smell. I looked in side down by the grinder was probably about 10 toothpicks (kids?) i cleaned them out. Now the dishwasher will pump in water and then it stops and instead of going into wash cycle it clicks waits a while then clicks again. I can also drain the water out and try again and same thing every time it wont go into wash cycle is it the motor or some kind of circut that burnt when I smelt burning?

Gt for Model Number kudlo3fvss3

Dw seems to get stuck in cycle ,every thing works perfect untill it drains water the frist time in normal wash. The water all drains out main circulation pump keeps running and runs out of water and gets loud. No more water comes back in. I have changed main circut board twice, no change. I replaced inlet valve, no change. Checked float and switch, no change. I replaced water sensor, no change. I also checked the drain hose it is clear. Drain pump is fine runs quiet and smooth. Water presure is good around 50psi. If you run dignostic test everthing runs perfect,no lights flash. Cycles run fine,and it dosent keep rnnning with no water.

1 Answer

Hello GT. It sounds like you will need to replace the float switch kit 8193506. If the switch gets out of line, it will cause this problem, and is why they offer the kit to repair the issue. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Joseph. You will need to press heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal, and the lights should clear and the unit start. Let it run the complete cycle. Test the heater and the thermostat and make sure they read closed. Also, get the water hot at the sink before starting the unit and running the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hi Joseph. 1.The heating circuit has a open device. Heater, connection, faulty heater drive circuit on the control board. 2. Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently. 3. Door switch not making contact consistently:¦ Faulty or sloppy door latch assembly (which can be aggravated by high door closure force keeping strike plate from fully seating).¦ Faulty door switch (high resistance).NOTE: Neutral switch on plastic tub models is only in series with motor and heater; other loads are not affected. 4.Lack of water to heat. Check the float switch to see if the stem freely rides up and down on the float switch. disconnect power and see if the door switches are opening and closing with a ohm meter. Check the mechanical operation of the striker and latch assy. Is the pump clear and the impeller working ? Is the pump windings OK. Measure the heater resistance. Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it to operate again. The water heating problem must be fixed or the control will stop running again. See potential causes below. Use the tech. sheet supplied with the unit under the kick plate and or behind the door panel. If the unit allows the field service test, this will pinpoint the area in which the circuit is an Issue. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Tim, There is not a blue colored "O" ring or seal, that large ( 7 to 8 in.) in your dishwasher. Are there any issues with washability, or major leakage. Good Luck and Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello JStross. Remove the bolt securing the wash motor and drip shield in place on the pump assembly. Once the bolt and drip shield are removed, turn the wash motor counter-clockwise until it stops (approximately ¼ turn). Pull the motor straight back from the sump assembly. Some effort may be necessary to dislodge the motor WPW10780877. The volute will remain attached to the motor. NOTE: When reinstalling the wash motor and volute, do not pinch the volute seal between the volute and sump. Use a small amount of rinse aid on the volute seal to help installation. With the wash motor removed, the separation screen can be removed from the sump base. The thermistor can be removed from the sump by turning it ¼ turn counterclockwise and pulling it out. The thermistor can be removed without removing the sump assembly from the tub. NOTE: Make sure water is completely drained from sump. Access to the thermistor can be gained by removing the access and toe panels while the unit is in its installed position. Hope this helps.

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