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Customer Questions and Answers for Brake Rotor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18025995
Manufacturer Part Number: WP35-6714

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Brake Rotor (Part Number: OEM18025995)

1 Answer

Larry, The snubber ring is part number WP21002026 but the other two parts have been discontinued by the manufacturer & are no longer available. No alternate or substitute parts have been recommended by the manufacturer.

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1 Answer

Kent, Take one of the screws out and take it to the hardware store and get 2 screws that are longer. Put then on each side of the brake stator plate and run them in. Once in then remove the other 4 screws and then slowly remove the 2 longer screws you put in. This should allow the stator to come free. Just loosening the regular screws will not allow the tension off and it will remain tight.

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1 Answer

Don, Check to make sure that the thrust bearing is turning in one direction completely and if it is then turn the other direction and it should lift the brake to turn the drum. If it does and the drum does not turn then this would be a bad tub bearing. If it does not then the thrust bearing would be the issue.

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Fred for Model Number PAV2300AWW

Our Maytag PAV2300AWW Performa Washer is now 16 years old. A few weeks ago it started emitting a odor that smelled like burning candles. The washing machine was still running fine. We had no idea where the smell was coming from. Finally during one of the washes the machine shut down. Turns out the motor seized up. Looked at some video's online as to what the problem could be and purchased a new motor and belt. Before installing it I checked the trans pully and pump pully to make sure they turned freely. The pump pully turned freely both ways but the trans pully only turned freely clockwise. Counter clockwise there was some resistence. I thought I was good to go and fired the machine up with the new motor attached. The Machine ran like brand new. We must of done at least 10 washes over a weeks time with it but a few nights ago we heard the machine shut down on its own. I walked in and saw it shut down right at the Spin Cycle and there was a odor of a different kind again and we still had water in the tub. I waited until it cooled down to start it again in the Spin Cycle to get the water pumped out. Had to do that twice being it shut down I would guess within 10-15 seconds. Once the water was out I took the front cover of the washer off the machine to observe the motor. Started it and saw smoke coming from the motor so I shut it down right away. I then unplugged it and tilted the machine to check the belt and pully's. The belt after taking it off and inspecting it still looks like brand new and the motor did not seize up. The pully spins freely. At this point I have no idea what to check. The machine didn't make any weird noises or anything during the 10 or so washes with the new motor attached. Don't know if the motor is defective or if something caused the motor to strain that it started to smoke and emitt a odor that was different from the odor that was emitting from the original motor after 16 years of trouble free washing. Any help is fully appreciated. We really like this machine and really don't want to buy a new machine the way they are being made today with all the electronics.

1 Answer

Fred, see if you can manually turn the pulley counter clock wise several turns, this will engage the brake to turn the basket or put it into spin mode. Turning the pulley clock wise will dis-engage the brake and allow the agitator to operate. You may find that the gearcase is binding and not allowing it to go into spin, in that case you would need to replace the gearcase.

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Ben for Model Number MAV7600AWW

Got 2 issues. The main issue is that the washer has begun to lurch when it spins to a stop. Literally jumps 2-3 inches sideways at the end of cycles. It's been squeaking to a stop for a long while but that was an inconvenience, this new issue has to be addressed. I've read something about applying silicone brake grease to brake rotor or brake pads but on my model, I believe those are not accessible unless I dismantle the entire washer to get at the sealed brake assembly at the bottom of my tub. I don't know if trying lube first is recommended but what parts do I need to replace and what is the recommended procedure to remove the brake assembly. Do I replace 2 of the 6 bolts with 5/16" screws to hold the tension while I release the assembly? Other issue is that periodically the water will not have drained out of the tub at the end of the wash cycle. thanks

1 Answer

Ben, This would be an issue with the brakes on the unit. The parts you would want would be the brake stator WP35-6918 and the brake lining WP35-6714. For the draining issue check the pump to make sure that it is not seizing up and not clogged.

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1 Answer

Lisa, You will want to check the springs on the washer. If the springs are weak it will cause the drum to get off balance which will also cause the issue of the speeding up and slowing down.

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1 Answer

Clyde, If the noise is a screeching type of noise then it is very possible the brake could be slipping but you will want to check the pump to make sure that the bearings are not starting to fail on it.

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1 Answer

Hello Shawn. It is not likely the belt has stretched out. You need to check the rollers and make sure the unit is not binding on the unit. If the tub turns freely, then you will need to check and see if the motor is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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Shawn for Model Number MAV208DAWW

Hi, We have a maytag top loading washing machine. After the machine runs through the final spin it makes a screech sound and comes to a fast stop. The clothes are still wet. I watched a lot of videos and it appears I need to replace the brake. I followed one video advice and turned the machine on spin and it spun but not at the top speed. I was not able to rotate the tub by hand. According to the video it is the brake and not the transmission. We replaced the belt and the thrust bearing kit. What do you think??

1 Answer

Hello Shawn. No, the brake is fine on the unit. If the thrust bearing is new, and the unit still does not spin out, then the transmission is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello David, You should replace the thrust bearing kit 12002213 first since this is the most common failure on this model. The brake would be in question next or if there is oil around the base.

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