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Customer Questions and Answers for Infinite Switch Top Burner Control Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18033882
Manufacturer Part Number: WP7403P239-60

The Whirlpool Infinite Switch is an OEM part for Whirlpool ranges. Whirlpool electric ranges. This switch controls the multiple heat settings of the large element, allowing the user to select their desired cooking temperature. It is an important electrical component that regulates burner heating cycles.

Symptoms of a bad infinite switch include:

  • The element not heating up adequately or failing to maintain temperature
  • Inability to select or change heat settings on the
  • Burner operates intermittently or fails to heat properly

Causes of a bad infinite switch can include failure over many heating cycles. The electrical contacts within the switch may become corroded or deteriorate from repeated exposure to cooktop temperatures and cooking residue.

It is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore electric range models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Infinite Switch Top Burner Control Switch (Part Number: OEM18033882)

1 Answer

Hello Keith. If the sensor is new, you will need to order and replace the control board on the unit.

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Katrina for Model Number Amana smooth top stove

My indicator light is also on but the burners are not hot and turn all the way off. I suspect it is my large front right burner, because I used it last. Is there a way that I can troubleshoot without a tester, such as unplugging each inf. switch to see if the light goes off? Also, can I switch out one large burner switch with the other and temporarily leave the bad switch disconnected, so that I can still prepare meals until I determine the problem and order the right part? Thanks in advance for your reply!!!

1 Answer

Katrina, On the infinite switches there is a terminal P that would be for the on indicator light. If you unplug from the switch whichever one is bad should turn the light off. If it is the hot indicator light then one of the burners would be the issue.

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Karen for Model Number MER5770AAB

Hi. The front dual burner stopped working on our stove, so, assuming it was the element, I ordered a new one. As we started to change it out, my husband discovered that a wire was loose and burned -- so it is doubtful the element was bad. He changed the element anyway, but since the wiring is different from our 14 year old stove -- I think there are extra wires now --- he wasn't sure how to hook it up. Now, when I turn on the front burner, it burns HOT only. And, if I turn on the back right burner, the front inside burner comes on too. Now what do we do? I figure we need a new Infinite Switch, but also need wiring instructions. Please help!

1 Answer

Karen, The proper element wiring is Double red to 1b, red to 2b, yellow goes to outside element, tan goes to inside element, single red that comes off harness with tan and yellow goes to the limiter. and Single red from surface element goes to 2b.

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1 Answer

Karen, If it is the surface on indicator light you then the problem would be in one of the infinite switches. You will want to check from P to L2 on each of the switches with the switches in the off position. If there is 120 vac then the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Don, Your first check should be at the elements and receptacles on the cooktop. Turn power off, remove the elements and drip panes and check the recepatcle openings, and end of the element terminals for damage and arc marks, and make sure the elements snap and lock in place tightly when inserted in the receptacle. To access the burner switches, you'll need to remove the burner knobs and bezels, raise the cooktop, use a putty knife to press in on the two spring clips and lift up on the corner of the cooktop, use a prop rod to hold the top up while working on the switches.

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1 Answer

Hello Eben, You should test the bake circuit of unit. First thing to do, using multi-meter check for line voltage of 120vac across L1 and Bake on control board. If there is voltage then you would need to replace Control WP12001628. If there is no voltage then you would want to check the bake element with turned on for 240vac. If no voltage then you will want to check the wiring to the element. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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