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Customer Questions and Answers for Door Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM20919444
Manufacturer Part Number: W11396033

The Door Switch is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators. This switch is crucial for controlling the interior lights and the activation of certain refrigerator functions when the door is opened or closed. 

Symptoms of a failing Door Switch include:

  • Interior lights staying on when the refrigerator door is closed
  • Interior lights not turning on when the door is opened
  • The refrigerator unexpectedly starting or stopping
  • Alarms or indicators malfunctioning, signaling an open door when it is closed

Causes of a bad door switch can involve mechanical failure due to wear and tear from frequent use, damage from impacts (such as slamming the door), or electrical issues like a short circuit or faulty wiring.

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Door Switch (Part Number: OEM20919444)

2 Answers

BK, No the door switch is not the issue. When you open the freezer door, and the water dispenser ceases, that tells you the door switch is working. You will need to dismantle the dispenser assembly, and check the W10176455 / W10144511 Dispenser Pad for a damaged circuit/switch and the WPW10144584 / W10144584 Control Board for a shorted circuit or "stuck" selector mini switch.

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2 Answers

BK, check the door switch for continuity, I would also check the pad switch in the dispenser to make sure it opens and closes, you may need to remove the dispenser to access the switch.

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1 Answer

Hello Alfred, you'll want to make sure you have 120v present at the blue/black wire on the switches. If present you'll want to test switch part number WP2162361 to make sure it's opening and closing when you press the button. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Victor, First check the freezer door liner, where the liner activates the light switch, make sure it is still straight and "full". If the liner has shrunk or collapsed, it wont activate the light switch properly and you have intermittent dispenser and interior light operation. if the liner is OK then replace the switch W11396033. If the liner is shrunk, etc. you can try and use a small 1X1 in. square foam pad(available at the local hardware store or home improvement center, adhere it to the door liner in the area of the door switch, or replace the switch and install the pad, it will reduce the possibility of a door/door liner replacement.

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1 Answer

Hello Larry. It looks like the switch has 3 terminals. You will need to only use the two that matches your old switch. Leave the other one open.

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Larry for Model Number KFIS29PBMS00

The refrigerator is not cooling sufficiently. There is an upper coil in the refrigerator section that has ice buildup yet the lower coil (in freezer section) is fine. I replaced the evaporator fan which includes the thermostat for the lower coil. Still not cooling in the refrigerator compartment. How does the cool air get into the refrigerator section? The lower drawer in the refrigerator section cools great as it appears to get air from the freezer section below fine. It seems like there is no air flow to the refrigerator. We thawed the upper coil so no ice build up, but still "frosty". Any ideas what may be wrong? Thank you

1 Answer

Hello Larry, The freezer and fresh food compartment do not share air in this design unit. The unit has separate evaporator coils and they should take turns with the compressor pumping Freon into these evaporators. The part responsible for sending the Freon to one or the other evaporator is the three way solenoid valve WPW10364560. This is the part I would first suspect.

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1 Answer

Bob, The way to get the light switch out is you have to get under the switch front or back and twist the flat blade toward the right just enough to get the switch down slightly. Then you will take another flat blade and push up on the side of switch in between the liner and the switch in order to release the locking lever on the switch.

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1 Answer

Hello George, This sounds like you may have dropped the neutral side of the circuit. If the voltage is available from the power control board, the issue has to be in the return side of the circuit. This can be troubleshot by using any black wire with voltage on it all the time to look for the neutral o the white wires. If the neutral is not present, the 120Vac will not show up on the meter. If it is present, the meter will read 120Vac.

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