1 Answer MC, the temperature selector WP3399639 would be tested for resistance and it should measure between 10 to 10K Ohms depending on the selection. Read More...
Jim August 11, 2020 for Model Number KEYS750J The dryer is running really hot. I checked heating element it is not grounded and not open. Checked the dryer cycling thermostat and hi-limit thermostat with ohmmeter they appeared to be working but from everything i read most likely cause of overheating except for clogged vent. Vent is open and have real good air flow. Wife seems to think the temperature does not change not matter what temperature is selected. Should i replace the temperature selector switch?
1 Answer Hello Jim, a venting problem is usually the cause for this symptom, try running a load with the vent disconnected from the dryer for one load as a test. If still the same replace the temperature selector switch WP3399639, and the cycling thermostat WP3387134 together. Read More...
Chris January 09, 2020 for Model Number 110.74992301 Problem: Dry getting warm, but not hot. I have cleaned the vent system and dryer blower motor areas thoroughly. With temperature selector switch on highest setting, and dryer on timed setting, the ignitor glows and the flame ignites, but then the flame goes out shortly after ignition (maybe within 30 seconds or so). I have tested the thermal fuse, the flame sensor, the high limit thermostat and all have continuity. I have also checked the thermistor which has ~13.5K ohms resistance at ~64F. The thermistor also responds well by decreasing resistance with increasing temperature. I have not checked the moisture sensors, but I never use the automatic moisture sensing drying cycle, only the timed drying cycle. Wondering if this could be due to a problem with the temperature selector switch (WP3399643). I haven't been able to find any info or videos on what happens when this switch fails or how to test the integrity of this switch. Any ideas?
1 Answer Chris, the coils 279834 may need to be tested for a proper resistance rating as they can certainly cause this issue. The three-terminal coil should read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. The two-terminal coil should read 1,000-1,300 ohms of resistance. The temperature selector can be tested for continuity when the dryer is unplugged. With the temperature selector set to high heat, contact 3 should have continuity to contact 5, and the contacts 1 and 2 should not have continuity to contact 4. If there is continuity between 1 and 4, or 2 and 4, then the temperature selector would need to be changed. If the selector tests good, then the heater relay WP3405281 will need to be tested for voltage from the temperature control WPW10116565. At the temperature control, the red probe of the multimeter would be placed at connection P3 pin 1 with the black probe placed at connection P3 pin 2. During operation, the voltage should read a continuous 48VDC. If the voltage stops, then the control has failed (unfortunately this control has been discontinued and is no longer available). If the voltage continues and everything else tests good, then the relay has failed and would need to be replaced. Read More...
Nick August 18, 2019 for Model Number Kenmore Electric Dryer 110.62872101 Problem: After the cycle, the clothes are dry but cold (not hot) I had clean the vent and lint for the dryer, check the vent output. I had replaced all thermostat fuels and components, heat elements, and the timer too. All continuities check out fine. The dryer did heat up at the beginning and even during the cycle. I see and feel the heat from the heat element. Could it be the temperature switch or where should I look at? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Nick, the temperature selector switch for this model only controls the range of drying temp, not the heat/no heat selection, that is done in the timer. If you have a multimeter then run the dryer with a clothes load until it loses heat in the cycle, then test for 240v L1-L2 at the rear terminal block, if you still have 240v, then unplug the dryer line cord or shut off the breaker to it and access the motor and check the load switch wiring and terminals for any problems. Read More...
Jrg July 01, 2019 for Model Number 11062802101 Dryer spins but heats only rarely. All cut off thermostats read less than 1 ohm, heater thermostat reads 6.9 kOhm, heater coil reads 10 ohm. Voltage between white and red at the terminal block is 120VAC. Voltage between red and black at the timer reads 0.0VAC. Carefully inspected to be sure all wires were connected to their respective thermostats and they were. Disconnected and rechecked all thermostats and fuses out of an abundance of caution. Still good. Where else should I check for continuity?
1 Answer JRG, there is a voltage issue and you may want to inspect at the outlet. The voltage reading you should have at the terminal block when going from black to red is 240VAC. The black wire would be L1 and the red wire would be L2, so with them showing 0VAC when tested together would indicate that only one line is providing power to your unit. Read More...
Jrg June 30, 2019 for Model Number 11062802101 Dryer heats only rarely on moisture sensing mode at normal heat. Doesn't heat at all in timed dry mode. Motor turns, drum spins, and all thermostats and temperature fuses read normal. Heater coil also reads normal (which you'd expect, since it sometimes works). What are the expected resistance readings through the temperature selector switch in each of the three positions?
1 Answer Hello JRG, Testing will need to be done with a multimeter when the dryer is not heating and running in a dry cycle. First, test for 120v L2 red wire to Neutral white wire at the dryer's terminal block, if the voltage is missing check terminal connections, line cord and circuit breaker. If it has the correct 120v then next at timer terminals Black to Red, if has 240v and the dryer is not heating then replace the timer. The temperature selector has a resistance range of 10 to 10k ohms depending on selection however it only controls the temperature level (low to high) when in a heat mode. Read More...
Adam June 05, 2018 My dryer wED4800XQ1 is not drying but getting really hot. I have replaced the cycling thermostat, and the thermal fuse. I have made sure that vent is clear, but I will say that only half of my lint screen becomes filled during a cycle. I have cleaned the lint screen multiple times. I am not sure what else to do. I have considered the high limit thermostat or heating element but I am not sure. when running the dryer on fluff air, heat is still produced. so i am pretty sure that no matter what temp the dryer is set on it remains hot. I have read on other forums that this could also be the control panel which I have yet to take a look at. trying to decide whether to continue putting money into the dryer or buy a new one.
1 Answer Adam, You will want to check the venting from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of the home as it sounds likely that the venting is clogged up not allowing proper airflow which would cause this issue. Read More...
Gary H June 30, 2017 for Model Number WED4800XQ0 Dryer will heat sometimes and not others. Have checked all thermostats and fuses, replaced timer,element, checked cent motor switch looks good. What else could be causing this issue?
1 Answer Gary, Check the wiring at the terminal block as there may be a loose connection which could cause this issue. Read More...
Miranda March 21, 2017 for Model Number 110.67522600 At the end of the timed dry cycle, the buzzer sounds and the drum stops turning like normal but the dryer keeps heating and the timer knob keeps turning until I unplug the unit. Is there a part that can be replaced to fix it?
1 Answer Miranda, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty timer which would be part number WP8299784. Read More...
Juan November 29, 2016 for Model Number WGD5100VQ1 At first I was not getting the glow no flames I replace the coil now I'm getting the glow and the flame but then the flame cut off I check everything and it che k out good is it the igniter I check the igniter and it good I do t know what going on
1 Answer Hello Juan. It sounds like the gas coils are bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Read More...