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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024984
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3392519

Stop dryer downtime in its tracks — install the Whirlpool WP3392519 OEM Thermal Fuse in minutes.

OEM Quality Fast 1–2 Day Shipping* Free Tech Help

Why choose this fuse?

  • Guaranteed OEM: built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool specs — no risky aftermarket clones.
  • Broad compatibility: works with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper & more.
  • Quick delivery: over 94 % of APP orders arrive in 2 days or less.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the fuse is involved
Dryer won’t start Blown fuse interrupts motor circuit
No heat / not enough heat Heater circuit disabled for safety
Cycle ends early Over-temp trip stops cycle
Control panel dead Power to controls interrupted


4-step DIY installation (≈10 min)

  1. Unplug dryer and remove rear panel.
  2. Locate thermal fuse on blower housing.
  3. Transfer wires; secure new fuse with ¼-inch nut-driver.
  4. Clean the vent & lint path before testing to prevent repeat failure.

*Video tutorial below.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM18024984)

1 Answer

Wai, You would not pull the unit from the back and you would just need to remove the access panel to get to the thermal fuse. You will also want to check for anything that could be binding causing the motor to overheat. Also check the door switch to make sure that it is not damaged.

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1 Answer

Doug, You will want to check the thermostats to make sure that they are good. If they check ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Steve, If the thermal fuse is "bad" or open, yes it will eliminate power to the motor and the dryer will not start or run. The WP3392519 / 3392519 is located on the blower housing and usually has two blue wires attached to it. The "blown" fuse would indicate an air flow problem, you'll want to check the exhaust vent pipes and vent hood for clogs, kinks, damage, Also check the filter for clogs, the filter channel and blower wheel and housing for lint and debris.

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1 Answer

Lee, On the start switch you put a meter lead between each of the terminals and then push or rotate the switch, if it has continuity when rotated or pushed then it is good.

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1 Answer

Linda, For this model you would not take off the back as it is part of the cabinet assembly and this unit is disassembled from the front. You can take off the lower access panel to be able to access the heater to get the thermal fuse out.

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Vince for Model Number LER4634EQ2

Whirlpool LER4634EQ2 dryer will not heat Hey guys, about a week ago my dryer suddenly stopped heating up. It still blows and spins but no heat at all. I've visually checked the heating element while it's running and it's not coming on. I've check continuity with a multi-meter on all the recommended possible problem parts (listed below) and am coming up empty as they all check out. Parts I've checked: Heating element (reads at 0.0 on the multi-meter) Thermal cut-off (reads at 0.0 on the multi-meter) High-limit thermostat (reads at 0.0 on the multi-meter) Thermal fuse (reads at 0.0 on the multi-meter) Dryer Cycling Thermostat (reads at 0.0 on the multi-meter on the large outer terminals, reads at 7.0 on the smaller inner terminals used for low-heat cycle) I've tried turning the breaker for the dryer on and off a few times just in case and I'm at wit's end. Any help would certainly be appreciated. thanks!

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