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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024984
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3392519

Stop dryer downtime in its tracks — install the Whirlpool WP3392519 OEM Thermal Fuse in minutes.

OEM Quality Fast 1–2 Day Shipping* Free Tech Help

Why choose this fuse?

  • Guaranteed OEM: built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool specs — no risky aftermarket clones.
  • Broad compatibility: works with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper & more.
  • Quick delivery: over 94 % of APP orders arrive in 2 days or less.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the fuse is involved
Dryer won’t start Blown fuse interrupts motor circuit
No heat / not enough heat Heater circuit disabled for safety
Cycle ends early Over-temp trip stops cycle
Control panel dead Power to controls interrupted


4-step DIY installation (≈10 min)

  1. Unplug dryer and remove rear panel.
  2. Locate thermal fuse on blower housing.
  3. Transfer wires; secure new fuse with ¼-inch nut-driver.
  4. Clean the vent & lint path before testing to prevent repeat failure.

*Video tutorial below.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM18024984)

1 Answer

Jules, You will want to check the thermostats on the unit to make sure that they have continuity and check the heater to make sure that it is good. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

h-square, if the timer does move to the off position on it's on, then it is not the timer, make sure you have good air flow through the vent, check the main operating thermostat, it should be opening and closing to advance the timer, if not, replace timer, it is located on the blower housing, part number is WP694674

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1 Answer

Hello Nove, you'll want to test the dryer thermister WP8577274 for 10k ohms at room temperature. You can also clean the the moisture sensor bars part number WP3387223. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Hello Wayne, to test the fuse correctly you are only looking for continuity. If it's good it will read closed, if it's blown it will read open. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Hello Diane, This sounds like you may have a bad door switch. I'm sorry but we will need to ask you to post a new question including the model number from your units' I.D. tag so we can provide better diagnostic information and recommend parts that can be guaranteed to work properly on your unit. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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1 Answer

Jesse, With the dryer thermal fuse blowing you will want to check the venting from the blower wheel to the outside of the home. If this checks ok then you will want to check to make sure that the hi limit thermostat is good and make sure that there is nothing caught in the blower housing. These would be the most likely causes for this issue.

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1 Answer

Hello David. You will need to test for a bad thermal fuse, door switch, or broke belt. Any of the 3 can cause the issue with the unit. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Vickie, You could test the thermal fuse for continuity and if it is good then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Julie, one of the first checks should be the igniter 279311 , they are pretty fragile and can crack or break, and become inoperable. Then check the thermal fuses on the blower housing, and inlet duct on the heat chamber. The thermal fuses and the thermostats should have "closed" circuits at room temperature.

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1 Answer

Hello Al, You will need to check the ignitor 279311, hi-limit thermostat and thermal cutout W11050897, the cycling (operating) thermostat WP3387134, and flame sensor WP338906 for continuity with no resistance.If good, the gas coils 279834 should read 40O, 560O, and 1220O respectively. If still no problem is found the issue can be the gas valve 279923, the centrifugal switch in the motor assembly 279787, or the timer WP3976570.

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