Jim April 20, 2014 for Model Number 106.53369300 I have a Kenmore Coldspot side by side that is not cooling on both the freezer and the refrigerator. I check the compressor and it seems to be running. The comp ohms seem normal at ~ 10, 6, and 4 across the pins. Condensor fan and evaporator fans are running. The defrost heater and thermostat both have continuity. Can you tell me what to check next?
1 Answer Jim, Check the frost pattern of the evaporator coils. There should be an even frost pattern from top to bottom. If the frost pattern is only partial then the issue would be either a sealed system leak or a restriction in the sealed system. Read More...
Ken March 26, 2014 for Model Number Kenmore Elite 106.57706704 Side by Side . The top shelf items are frosting and the bottom is creating a layer of ice. Large and very loud pops are heard throughout the day and night. Defrosted by turning refrigerator off and re-occurred after a few weeks or so. Checked the drain pan and it is bone dry. I suspect a clogged drain? What else could it be.
1 Answer Ken, With the issue that you are having with the layer of ice at the bottom of the freezer would be caused by a clogged drain. You would want to clear all the ice out and flush the drain with hot water to clear. Read More...
Matt January 18, 2014 for Model Number GD5SHAXNB00 I have Whirlpool side by side refrigerator (model # GD5SHAXNB00) that was given to me after it had been working on and off and eventually replaced. After researching I learned that it was common for the OEM control board to burn out if a light bulb burned out. I checked that and found a transistor and pathway that had burned out. It has now been replaced, but is still not cooling sufficiently. The compressor runs, I cleaned the condenser coils, there's no ice buildup in the freezer, and the air ducts are clear (although the air diffuser assembly part # AP4327308 is broken I can manually adjust it). When plugged in the evaporator coil only frosts down the first expansion tube down to the bottom of the coil but does not frost beyond the first bend. I removed the thermistor and tested it with a multimeter and observed the following; room temp 3.72k ohms, ice water 8.79k ohms. I read elsewhere, but for a different brand, that it should read something closer to 6.2 and 16.3 k ohms respectively. Do those numbers also apply to my whirlpool indicating I need a new one? Also, there's been twice that I noticed after unplugging the unit a couple of bubbles form from under the shrink tubing where the expansion tubing first connects to the evaporator coil pack. Is this possibly a coolant leak, or maybe just air under the shrink tubing expanding and bubbling out? Basically, how do I tell it it's an actual coolant leak? Thanks for your help!
1 Answer Hello Matt. Either it is restricted or there is a leak. You will need HVAC gauges to read the pressures on the system to find the problem. Read More...
Rob January 16, 2014 for Model Number 106.74212400 My refrigerator keeps freezing food. Even at highest setting a meat thermometer is reading less than 30 degrees. The freezer works fine. I have unloaded, unplugged and let the unit sit open for 4 hours twice but within a few days it is freezing things in the fridge. Last time I moved everything away from the vents to no avail. I think I need to replace the Thermistor. Where is it located in my refrigerator?
1 Answer Hello Rob. Make sure the damper is good. The thermistor WP2188820 is located inside the control panel on the unit. Read More...
Jason November 18, 2013 for Model Number GS6SHAXMQ00 Yes my refrigerator and frezzer is not staying as cold as it should. I called a sevice man out to check it he said everything looked alright and sounded good but he thinks the thermostat was going out but he priced me around 200 for the part. What do you think?
1 Answer Hello Jason. It could be the thermostat. However, I would check the condenser fan motor and coils and make sure they are clean and removing the heat as they should. Read More...
Scott August 25, 2013 for Model Number Whirlpool GS5SHAXNT00 My freezer coils keep icing over. I have replaced the bimetal sensor and the heater element. Still icing. I disconnected the element at one end, took a voltage reading at the end of the element with a fluke digital meter, and got 64 volts between the open connectors. I took a reading from the element end to the fan ground and got 64 volts. Shouldn't the heating element be getting 115 volts to properly melt the ice? Could the thermistor be bad? Is there a defrost thermostat in this refrigerator or is it integrated into the board?
1 Answer Hello Scott. If the unit is in defrost cycle, the heater should have 120 volts coming to it. Read More...
Karen June 19, 2013 for Model Number 106-57715700 I have a Kenmore Elite Coldspot refrigerator, Model 106-57715700, that seems to be in perfect working order except it no longer gets cold/the compressor isn't working at all. I was told to check the start dev (part 2304885) to see if it rattles. Could that part still be bad even if its not rattling/should I still order a new one? or is something else wrong? (I am on a fixed income/trying to save money but i'm not very mechanically inclined.)
1 Answer Hello Karen. If the start device is bad, you would hear noise from the compressor and a click. If there is no power to the compressor, then we have other issues. Most likely, the main board WP2321711 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Matt May 14, 2013 for Model Number kenmore 106.56702500 My refrigerator section keeps warming up. The freezer stays frozen. My kids turned down the refrigerator section to 33°f so I unplugged thew whole unit for 36 hours and let it all thaw with doors open. plugged it back in, set temp to correct 37° and a little more than 12 hours later it was good to go. 4 days later inside fridge was warm again.(last night) This morning it was cooled off again, but not where it should be. Is this a thermistor problem since the freezer works just fine? What else should I check?
1 Answer Hello Matt. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Frank F. March 13, 2013 for Model Number 10 cu ft magic chef refridgerator top freezer The refrigerator part of the unit is not getting cold but the freezer is. I see a box inside the fridge with the temp control and a vent. Is there a fan in this unit that may not be functuning? Does the cold air come down from the freezer by convection? How does this work and what do I need to fix it?
1 Answer Hello Frank. If there is a fan in the top of the unit, and there is power to it, and it is not running, you will need to order and replace the fan motor in the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Pete February 27, 2013 for Model Number kenmore 106.53352300 Hi, Fridge has developed an intermittent issue with temp control. At times the freezer temp is way to cold. When set at normal mid-range setting it can be as cold as -20F. During these times the refrigerator section is also below normal..below 32F in the bottom sections. The temp difference between the freezer and refrigerator seems about right so I don't think it's a damper problem. My guess is a thermostat (thermistor??) problem. Please give short explanation of function of temp control and your suggestion of problem. How to test? I saw a 2.7K ohm @ room temp spec in another answer, is that for this thermistor? Thanks
1 Answer Pete, You will want to check the thermistors of the unit as this may be a bad thermistor WP2188819. You can test the thermistors by removing from unit and letting them warm to room temp. At 77 degrees the resistance should be 2.7K ohms. If the thermistors are not reading the proper resistance then they are defective. If the thermistors check ok then the control 8201527is faulty and would need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...