Mike December 17, 2012 for Model Number Amana Dryer Model #NED7200TW My dryer was working fine and then just stopped heating during a load, (on Low). I turned it back on to try to dry them as best as possible with just fan. They never got warm at all. I put a second load in to try to do the same and those got REALLY hot! Dryer was set on Low setting. My wife said they were so hot she was afraid of fire. The dryer shut off on its on and had an HE code on the display. My original thought was bad heating element but that's obviously not it. I noticed their are 2 thermostats listed. I assume that one is a Hi limit, which in my case isn't working. Should I order both or can the Hi limit keep the element off? What's your thoughts on this problem? Thanks for any help you can provide!
1 Answer Hello Mike. You need to test the thermistor. Component Electrical Testing (with ohmmeter) • Thermistor resistance 10K O @ 25°C 77°F PTC (2P-Blue & Red wire) • Thermostat 1 resistance < 1O (White & Yellow wire) You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Tracy September 23, 2012 for Model Number MDE2706AYW Dryer runs but it is not heating. What part do you think we need to repair the problem?
1 Answer Hello Tracy, This is most likely the thermal fuse WP40113801. It can also be the heating element WPY503978 or the high limit thermostat WPW10116735. These are bad to burn a wire so you should probably look for that. These are rather sensitive to excessive temperature, so it isn't a bad idea to check the exhaust ducting to prevent a repeat of the same issue. The exhaust is more important than most will give it. If the air flow is restricted the heat, lint, and moisture will simply blow past the felt seals, back into the cabinet with all of your heat and moisture sensitive electrical devices. The thermal fuse is just that........thermal. This means that it is opened by temperature. If it is open, which is what the issue most likely is, it was caused by the exhaust not allowing the heat, lint, and moisture to exit the unit. As per all of the manufacturers, flexible ducting is not recommended. It tends to get crimped and clogged too easily and causes customers to think that the dryer is "a piece of junk". In actuality, the most important part of the dryer isn't even part of the dryer. It's the exhaust duct! If you replace the thermal fuse without correcting the exhaust duct, the thermal fuse will most likely just blow again. Read More...
Bob September 16, 2012 for Model Number ALE443RAW My dryer appears to be running very hot, even at the lower temperature setting. I recently replaced the motor because the dryer would shut off when hot and eventualy the motor stopped working completely. The motor works fine now but the hot temperature issue still remains. I checked the vent from the filter to the vent flap and it is fine. I only have two elbows and 4 ft of hose to the outside and it is not kinked. 1. What should the dryer discarge temperature be? 2. What kind of resistance should I be reading on the hi limit thermostate, AP4298584? could it be anything else, thank you for your time!
1 Answer Hello Bob. Test the temperature with a meter. It should rise to around 160°, then start coming down. If not, the cycling thermostat may need to be replaced on the unit. Read More...
G September 06, 2012 I have replaced all venting from the dryer to the outside. I have replaced the thermal fuse mutiple times. Dryer will work 10 to 20 days until the Thermal fuse blows. I have vacuumed all the interior duct in the dyer and can find no restrictions. Dryer has work in this location for 10 years no problems. I thought it may be the thermostat but I can observe the element cycling. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, G
1 Answer G, You forgot to attach a model number. but, in general, there other things to check or replace. With the new venting, and you're sure there are no kinks or restrictions and the vent hood is not too close to the ground or collapsed, you'll need to first check for and remove any lint build up in the air duct assembly and blower housing 37001141, check and make sure the blower wheel 56000 and vanes are clean, not cracked and the wheel fits tight on the motor shaft. and there are no air leaks around either drum seal, and blower inlet seal. This time, repalce both the thermal fuse WP40113801 and high limit switch WPW10116735 at the same time. Read More...
Mick January 29, 2012 for Model Number mde308dayw Automatic timer will not advance. And clothes take forever to dry completely, there is heat present. Cleaned vent inside and out. Changed cycling thermostat and there is no difference. Any help would be appreciated.
1 Answer Hi Mick. Start by replacing the timer part # WP37001251. Make sure your sensor bars below the lint screen inlet are scuffed off w/scotch brite pad. This will allow the clothes to pass over them and be sensed better. Make sure you have the proper 240 vac to the terminal block and 120 vac from each end leg(blk and red wire) to the center white wire (neutral) wire. Make sure the connections are tight. Make sure your temperature selector is positioned correctly part # WP37001164. Let us know if we can help further once these all have been checked. If the timer is sticking then you need to start there as it may just repair all. Thank You. Read More...
Thun1der December 28, 2011 for Model Number MDE308DAYW I need to replace the wiring from the Hi-Limit thermostat to the heater. What's the part number? What would cause this wire to overheat, melt and snap off?
1 Answer Hello Thunder. The wire could have been damamged from a clogged or kinked vent assembly 37001148 is the wiring harness for the unit. Hope this helps. Read More...
Tony B. November 13, 2011 I need to know where to find the correct placement of wiring (Maytag MDEDAYW)example . Grey wire goes to this place on the thermal switch. Where can I find this?
1 Answer Hi Tony. In behind the control panel is a folded up wiring diagram. Remove power and remove the panel rear cover. The gray wire going to the thermal fuse, one side gray wire connects to the control board motor drive relay and the other feeds the motor overload itself. Thermal Fuse part # WP40113801. Make sure that you clean your entire vent system and the vent hood assy. outside. Thank You. Read More...
Shawn August 28, 2011 for Model Number DLE330RCW Element comes on but then goes out. clothes wont dry I dont know whats going on. I took the dryer apart and cleaned the venting out it all works fine but when I open the door and turn the dryer on the heating element comes on for a few minutes and then goes out then comes back on then goes out. Takes me 140 minutes to dry a load of clothes. Any ideas what it could be?
1 Answer Hi Shawn. The heating element can be shorted to ground and allowing half of the circuit (element) to stay engaged. This part # is WPY503978.It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. Hope this helps. Thank you. Read More...
Steve August 15, 2011 for Model Number Amana ALE643RBW This dryer is an electric model. I believe it has a clothes temperature sensor. The dryer stops before the clothes are dry and won't re-start until the temp cools down a bit. Which thermostat(s) might need to be replaced? Thanks, Steve
1 Answer Hello Steve. If the dryer is overheating and shutting off, then it has to cool down before it turns on, you will need to replace the motor WP2200376. Hope this helps. Read More...
Wayne D. July 29, 2011 for Model Number Maytag MDE308DAYW Replaced heater element, thermal fuses (both) and unit still does not heat.
1 Answer Hello Wayne. Did you check and make sure the unit has 240 volts coming to it at the terminal block? If so, you will need to trace at the heater and see where your loosing voltage at. You could have a bad timer WP37001251 or motor WP2200376 on the dryer. Unplug the wires from the heater and see which one has 120 volts and which one does not. Trace the wire that does not have power and see where you are loosing it from. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...