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Customer Questions and Answers for Gas Valve (Burner) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18070029
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10602001

This gas valve controls the flow of gas to a burner, enabling safe ignition and a stable flame. Replace a sticking or failed valve to restore dependable lighting and consistent heat output from your cooking appliance.

  • Regulates and shuts off gas flow from the manifold to the burner
  • Supports clean ignition and steady flame during operation
  • Common symptoms: burner won't light even with spark/igniter present, flame won't adjust or is erratic, control stem is stiff or stripped
  • Can help resolve intermittent flame-out or weak flame caused by internal valve wear
What's included: 1 gas valve Installation notes:
  • Disconnect power and shut off the gas supply before servicing
  • Note tubing/orifice orientation and transfer fittings as required
  • Apply gas-rated thread sealant to tapered pipe threads only
  • After installation, open gas and leak-test all joints with an approved solution; verify ignition and proper flame height

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Gas Valve (Burner) (Part Number: OEM18070029)

1 Answer

Murray, Thanks for the question!!! You will need to replace the burner orifices. The orifices you need: two of WPW10347414 Orifice (15K) (Left Front & Right Front), one WPW10170508 Orifice (9.5K) (Left Rear), and one WPW10170506 Orifice (5K) (Right Rear). You will also need the installation instructions to reference how to change the regulator and for the bake and broil conversion steps.

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Robert for Model Number WFG371LVQ3

I purchased this stove from an individual that said worked great and was used on LP tank, I am going to use in hunting camp. the gas valve looked like a built in regulator to me so hooked up tank and did not have much control over flames, I hooked up another regulator which helped a little but not correct. My question is with the built in gas valve I should not need another regulator if the valve is working properly. Thanks for your help Robert.

1 Answer

Robert, Based on the model you should not need another regulator, but you should check to see that the regulator and the range have been converted to LP as they come from the manufacturer set up for natural.

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1 Answer

Geralyn, With the valve only allowing gas to flow for a couple of seconds then this would most likely be a faulty gas valve.

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1 Answer

Hello Joe, the spark board controls the oven burners in bake/broil, on start it opens the appropriate gas valve, sends a spark to the ignitor and checks for a burner flame ,if no flame is detected it has 3 tries to light the burner then goes into a safety cancel mode. If the burner lights then goes out, the burner tube has a faulty ground connection through the mounting screw to the frame. Remove the burner mounting screw and lightly sand that area, replace the screw if corroded or loose, tighten the screw till snug but not overtight and retest.

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1 Answer

Becky, these would be available as part of the broil fitting W10853603 as well as the gas valve WPW10602001 (for the bake burner). The manufacturer does not list the orifice spud or hood separately based on the parts diagram for your model.

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1 Answer

Mark, it sounds like the gas valve is no longer regulating the gas pressure correctly, I would recommend replacing the gas control valve, part number WPW10602001

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Maestro for Model Number WFG520S0AS1

When we first turn oven on and set the temp, the oven clicks, sparks, gas flows, and ignites. Never an issue on first light. It reaches temp, then shuts off. However, it struggles to relight once temp drops. (I also think the internal temp drops WAY too low before it attempts to reignite but I don’t know if that’s normal). It will sense the temp drop eventually, igniter clicks, sometimes three times, then stop. It doesn’t always do this though; sometimes it lights on first try but it’s rare. If it fails after three clicks it makes another attempt a short time later. Sometimes it lights sometimes it doesn’t. A third scenario is the oven clicks, lights, but then it sounds like it blew itself out. It then tries again to light, sometimes lighting and sometimes not lighting. Finally there are times when it tries three times unsuccessfully and then just goes into protect mode I believe. In those cases I hit cancel and I start over. I believe I always I can hear gas flowing but it’s possible there are times when it doesn’t. A repair tech replaced wire harness while under warranty but I'm not sure what is causing these issues to still occur. .

2 Answers

Maestro, The igniter has to draw a certain amperage to open gas valve.Usually 3.2 to 3.5.If not order WP9758079.You can purchase a watt meter and plug your stove into the meter and set for amperage to check.Or clamp on meter whatever is easier.

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Maestro for Model Number WFG520S0AS1

When we first turn oven on and set the temp, the oven clicks, sparks, gas flows, and ignites. Never an issue on first light. It reaches temp, then shuts off. However, it struggles to relight once temp drops. (I also think the internal temp drops WAY too low before it attempts to reignite but I don’t know if that’s normal). It will sense the temp drop eventually, igniter clicks, sometimes three times, then stop. It doesn’t always do this though; sometimes it lights on first try but it’s rare. If it fails after three clicks it makes another attempt a short time later. Sometimes it lights sometimes it doesn’t. A third scenario is the oven clicks, lights, but then it sounds like it blew itself out. It then tries again to light, sometimes lighting and sometimes not lighting. Finally there are times when it tries three times unsuccessfully and then just goes into protect mode I believe. In those cases I hit cancel and I start over. I believe I always I can hear gas flowing but it’s possible there are times when it doesn’t. A repair tech replaced wire harness while under warranty but I'm not sure what is causing these issues to still occur. .

2 Answers

Maestro, Based on the information provided this issue sounds likely that the gas valve is possibly weak and causing this issue. Sounds like the solenoids inside the valve are breaking down once they get heated up.

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1 Answer

Jesse, First off, your model number is incorrect, it is probably WFG510S0AW0. The you will need to find the LP orifice conversion kit that came with the range(usually located in the area of the gas valve/gas regulator behind the storage drawer once you remove it) . If missing or lost, you will need to order [W10170531] top burner orifice kit, [W10400495] bake burner orifice, [W10400498] broil burner orifice. The conversion information and instructions are in the installation manual that came with the range. We would have sent you the information, but you didn't include an e mail address.

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1 Answer

Hello Jesse. You will need to order a conversion kit WPW10170531 for the unit. You will have to flip the regulator and adjust the oven orifices to convert the unit.

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