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Customer Questions and Answers for Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM17968848
Manufacturer Part Number: W10844024

Dishwasher won't fill or overfills with water? The water inlet valve controls fill cycles. Most DIYers complete this repair in under 60 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve (Part Number: OEM17968848)

1 Answer

Arnold, it would be recommended that the float WP3376397 is removed to identify if the stem has warped. This will also allow for it to be inspected to identify if anything could be obstructing the movement.

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Jim for Model Number 665.15839000

I recently purchased a dishwasher inlet water valve. when i received it and started to install it, i found that it was the wrong type for my washer model. my existing one has a flange on the tubing water inlet connection, not a standard hose connector. it will not work. my order number is 11589406. please send me the correct part or an adapter to connect my 3/8" plastic tubing compression fitting to the water hose male fitting on the inlet valve. thanks jim wa4kox@yahoo.com

1 Answer

Jim, The manufacturer has redesigned the water valve and you will need to go to the hardware store and get the adapter that will work for this valve.

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Kevin for Model Number kuds24sebl2

My dishwasher is only filling about half way for each fill during the dish wash cycle, not enough water to keep the pump primed and not pumping water through the spray arms. What stops the inflow of water to dishwasher on each cycle, the float valve, or timed inflow of water? Float valve moves up and down freely and you can here a switch noise when you move it up and down. Water does not reach float valve on a fill. My guess is a blocked inflow of water but wouldn't it just take longer to fill up to float?

1 Answer

Kevin, the float switch is a safety device, to keep the dishwasher from overfilling. as long as it can move up and down freely, and you hear the switch "click", it's OK. The actual fill time is controlled through the timer or control board(in your case the initial fill is 2 minutes long) and the control will cycle into the wash portion whether there's enough water or not. At this point, you'll need to replace the water inlet valve, and check and flush the hot water supply line from the kitchen sink to the dishwasher.

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1 Answer

Luke, is there enough water going into the tub? Does it wash ok, The inlet valve operates off of 120 volts AC. You could have debris is the water line that is restricting water flow through the inlet valve.

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1 Answer

Chris, Under the circumstances the check valve assembly 675238 may have been damaged, but we wouldn't expect the pump motor or a seals to be damaged. When you remove the drain hose and check or replace the check valve, make sure there isn't any debris left in the drain hose.

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1 Answer

Hello Bob. Make sure the water is turned on. If so, test for power to the valve. If there, and there is no water, you will need to replace the water valve on the unit.

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1 Answer

Wes, No, 49 VAC is not the correct voltage. You should have 120 VAC across the brown and brown/white wires at the inlet valve. First check the red/black wire at the float switch for 120 VAC to chassis ground. Being an older dishwasher, your first check should be at the wire harness at the bottom of the door, where it transitions from the door to the bottom of the tub. The harness wires can weaken and break from the opening and closing of the door.

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Ward for Model Number KUDM25SHWH1

We had a clear-weather power event here last night. No storms, but the power went out, back on for about 2 seconds, then out for 2.5 hours. This morning I started a load of dishes and noticed I didn't hear the water turn on when the cycle started. No matter which cycles I try, no incoming water. Nothing is holding the float switch up, so it should be calling for water. The valves are all on, and the the lights on the controls all light when pushed. I read on another post here that the valve operates on 110V, so I pulled the wires from the inlet valve, put a tester light on the power leads and when the cycle starts – no light. To test the valve itself, I made up a power cord, connected the leads to the inlet valve and when I started the cycle, plugged in the power cord and...water flows through the inlet valve. I let the entire cycle run this way, plugging the power cord in to open the valve at the right times, and unplugging it to avoid an overflow. I also noticed that the soap door didn't open when the main wash started, so had to do that manually. Seems that the electronics went bad? What other parts should I be looking at, or is it time for the repairman? The washer itself is 13 years old and never had a problem until now.

1 Answer

Ward, It might just be a coincidence, but you will also need to check the P 9 (blue/black wire) from the control board. That wire supplies the 120 VAC power to both the fill valve and the detergent dispenser. If the wire isn't broken or damaged then replace the control board WP8530929.

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