Customer Questions and Answers for Water Inlet Valve Assembly by Whirlpool

Coach C J, If the unit is not getting enough water in it and the unit is not being overloaded then the issue will be with the main control board WPW10189966.

Hello Richard, Since the entire appliance industry is set up so the parts are listed by Model number, we are unable to look up parts for your unit. If you could please re-post in a new string with the model number from the units' I.D. tag, we will be happy to look up whatever part numbers you need. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

Hello Julie. You need to check and see if there is power to the water valve. If so, replace the valve on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Naomi, You will have to raise the main top and remove the hoses from underneath as well as disconnecting the connections in the control panel to remove the water valve.

Carole, F54 Motor Control Overcurrent F then 54 flashes when the machine/motor control detects high current for the motor module. Check and make sure you didn't leave any wires loose or disconnected and the control board. Check and make sure the tub turns freely. Also check to make sure the wiring harness to the motor and sensor on the bottom of the tub didn't get dislodged or knocked loose.

Hello Jac. It sounds like the hose for the dispenser is clogged and will need to be cleaned out.

Kazoo, At present, it doesn't sound like you have a problem, " Measure the water temperature, and verify it is 85°±10°F (29°±6°C). If the water temperature is correct, ATC is functional". You're correct, the control and thermistor have "target" temperatures, and the hot water solenoid is activated during the fill cycle to attempt to achieve those targets. There are other factors involved as well, like the cold water temperature, If the temperature is extremely low or high in a lot of cases the target temperature can't be met. But at this point it doesn't sound like that's an issue here.

ABL, Yes it is possible that the valves could have good reading and the valves still be faulty if the plunger is sticking. Before changing out you will want to check the screens on the valve where the water supply hooks up to ensure that there is nothing clogging the screens creating the slow fill.

Hometech, As far as testing the control board you can only test for voltage out. If there is voltage going to the valve then the board is good. The first suggestion would be to check the inlet screens on the water valve to ensure that they are not clogged. If the screens check ok, then you will want to check the valve. The valves should have a resistance of 790 to 840 ohms. If there is power getting to the valve though it is likely the valve is bad or the inlet screen is clogged.

Hello Joey. On the front corners under the top, there are clips. Use a flat blade putty knife and release those clips by pressing in on them and raise the top and lean it back.