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Customer Questions and Answers for Valve by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM17947182
Manufacturer Part Number: W10801996

The Water Valve is an OEM part for Whirlpool ice machines. This part controls the flow of water into the ice maker, ensuring it receives the correct amount of water for ice production.  

Causes of a bad water valve can include wear and tear from regular use, mineral buildup from hard water, or electrical failures. 

Symptoms of a bad water valve include:

  • The ice machine not producing ice
  • Slow or inconsistent ice production
  • Leaking water from the valve area
  • No water entering the ice machine
  • You should replace the water valve if it becomes faulty or damaged.

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Valve (Part Number: OEM17947182)

1 Answer

Hello George, I'm sorry but the part 5300809240 listed for your model is no longer available and there is no satisfactory part supplied by the manufacturer. The part you were looking at is for an icemaker. If you want to adapt one to your application, you would be better off trying 3374621.

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Mochazel for Model Number KUIS185JBL0

Makes ice fine . Feeds water into water bucket and pump pumps over cooler plate however water stops flowing before pump stops pumping so there is a sucking noise until the pump finally gets enough water to stop. I can stop the pump by pouring a few ounces of water in the water bucket. I have noticed that whenever pump first starts there is a little water that drips down into the bucket from the end of the cooling plate where the water dumps off. So I think what ever reads the amount of water to put into the bucket is not allowing enough water in to fill the cooling try by several ounces. But what do I know?

1 Answer

Mochazel, This unit uses a time fill for putting water into the water reservoir. You will want to check the water pressure to make sure that there is enough pressure to fill the reservoir. Check the water line coming from the water valve to the reservoir to ensure that it is not getting frozen an not allowing water to flow properly. If it is frozen then you will want to insulate the line to make sure that it cannot freeze. Also check to make sure the at the water reservoir is not leaking, cap on tight and that there are no cracks in the reservoir.

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Mike P for Model Number 10689482996

As I read through the answers to questions regarding the reservoir running dry and causing the pump to surge, I see reference made to checking the bin float valve. What is the part number to this "bin float valve" I cannot find this part listed anywhere on your website nor do I see a "float" type valve inside the reservoir of my ice maker. Is it built in the pump housing? I am experiencing intermittent" low water" in the reservoir and my water inlet valve appears to be functioning properly. Please advise. Thank you!

1 Answer

Hello Mike, Your unit does not have a bin float valve. What you want to look for is a water line that is frozen. This would most commonly be caused by air migration around where the refrigerant lines go into the back of the unit and causes ice build up. This ice build up will collect around the water tube and cause freezing. When you shut unit down for several days and then start back up it will work for a bit but then will have same problem. To correct the air leak has to be found and sealed.

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Kc S. for Model Number GI1500XHB7

Same as others, after a couple of cycles this Whirlpool under counter ice maker runs dry only mine starts making light, white ice until it sticks in the upper chamber. Manually adding water to the reservoir helps but eventually that just flows like a waterfall over the ice in the upper chamber. Previously I have replaced the pump (twice), restrung the grid, and replaced the board for other problems. I was sure this time it was the water valve until I read the question above? Knowing how to operate a multi-meter needs more explanation for this particular application.

1 Answer

HI KC. Use the ohm meter on the R x 1 Scale and ohm out the pump terminals. You remove the front panel and see if the pump ohms out to 3.6 ohms and is not shorted individual terminals to ground. Then you check to see if there is a leak and you are losing pressure/water. It sounds like the drain pump needs replaced. Part # WP2217220. Thank You.

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William H. for Model Number Whirlpool GI1500XHB0

My Whirlpool under counter ice maker is 8 years old. About once very year for most of this time it begins to have problems. The symptom is a surging sound which is caused by the pump trying to circulate water over the freezing plate but there is insufficient water in the reservoir. If I turn the machine off and immediately back on, the water fill function works and the ice maker will freeze and harvest ice normally and then dump the remaining water from the reservoir to begin the next cycle; however, it does not refill the reservoir so I must turn it off and back on to get it to continue working. If I just let the machine surge (i.e. pump run without water in the reservoir) for an extended period, it will eventually go on to the water fill portion of the cycle and produce and harvest some ice but this is so intermittent that it cannot keep up with ice demand (not to mention the annoyance of the continuous surging sound). When the machine was previously under an extended warrantee, technicians always had problems diagnosing and fixing the problem (although the symptoms were always the same) and just kept swapping parts until the problem was fixed. This included changing out the control board, water valve, thermister, thermostat, transformer and pump. More often than not the water valve seemed to be the final solution. I have recently purchased and replaced two water valves from you but this did not solve the problem. Since the machine will pump water from the reservoir and produce ice, it seems that the problem is the sequencing of the cycle to refill the reservoir so I am guessing the control board is most likely the faulty part but as these parts are all quite expensive, I am reluctant to "experiment" by swapping parts the way past technicians have done. What do you recommend?

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