1 Answer Carl, elements are usually model specific. We would need the model number to both units to verify the part numbers and see if they are the same or not. Sorry. Read More...
Michael January 28, 2015 for Model Number YLEQ5000PW0 I've checked continuity on the heating element, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. All have circuit. There is solid "warm" air flow out of the dryer and out of the house. But the clothes take forever to dry - 3 towels took 2+ hrs, used to take 20 minutes or so, for ex. the heating element is half "burnt" (charcoal grey on the metal) , but like I say, it has continuity. Could it simply be underperforming? Any other ideas? Thanks!
1 Answer Hello Michael, When the complaint is a long dry time it and it is heating, it can only be a ducting issue or missing seals inside the unit, allowing the moisture to be recirculated across the clothes. The only other thing I have ever found was a softener sheet inside the blower wheel, preventing proper air movement. Be aware that none of the manufacturers recommend flexible ducting since it slows the air flow and contributes to long dry times. The duct should be a full 4 inch diameter and configured as short and straight as possible. You should refer to the owners manual and/or installation guide for the manufacturers' recommendations on ducting. Read More...
1 Answer Make, The element isn't supposed to stay on, it does cycle off and on. L1 power is routed from the timer to the thermostats and into the element. When the regulating thermostat reaches a pre set temperature(150-155 dgrs.) the thermostat opens and removes power to the element. The thermostat cools, then closes and power to the element is reestablished. Without a load of clothes, it usually takes 70 to 80 seconds for the temperature to rise to 150 - 155 dgrs. Read More...
Ron M January 22, 2015 for Model Number LER7646EQ0 How do I find out if the "NO HEAT" problem is the fuse or a burned out heating element?
1 Answer Ron, You will want to access the heater and thermal fuse and do a continuity test on the parts. If there is no continuity then the part is bad and would need to be replaced. If there is continuity then it is good. Read More...
Meska L. January 03, 2015 for Model Number labor number W10185979 If the switch goes bad would it cause the dryer not to put off heat? What could go wrong besides the element?
1 Answer Hello Meska, There are several things in the heating circuit that can cause the problem. There will be a thermal cutout, a cycling thermostat, the high limit thermostat, the heating element, the centrifugal switch that is built into the motor, the harness/connections, and the timer/electronic control. For more specific information and part numbers, please include the model number from the units' I.D. tag. This will allow us to look up your specific units' wiring diagram and parts list. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter. Read More...
Gobie December 30, 2014 for Model Number whirlpool dryer LGR7646Jq0 The other day our dryer was running and my wife asked me to remove something, did and when i restarted it it made a long strange buzz, and no and then would not start. It seems like it wants to at times and will some times make a few turns several minutes after you push the start button and then turns off. any ideas?
1 Answer Gobie, Check and make sure there's nothing in the blower, then replace the motor 279827 sounds like the bearings have dried out and the motor is overheating and "tripping" the motor overload. Read More...
Eliot December 29, 2014 I replace my heating element and still have no heat I am getting 120 volts on each leg at the terminal that the element plugs
1 Answer Elliot, Not sure how you tested the heating element to make sure that there is 120 vac on each leg. If you did not check by disconnecting one wire then there will be 120 vac to ground on each leg. The best way to test is to make sure that one of the leads is disconnected and have the dryer running. You will check both the wire that is connected and the wire that is disconnected with it being disconnected. Which ever side is missing the 120 vac is the side that you will need to test back to either the motor or the timer. On the timer side you will need to check the thermal fuse and thermostats. Read More...
Larry December 11, 2014 for Model Number GAS182G2A1 Where is the heating element for the gas dryer and how do I change it?
1 Answer Hello Larry. Gas dryers do not use elements. They have gas burners inside them. You remove the front panel to access the burners in most models. Read More...
Doris December 08, 2014 for Model Number LE/GQ8857H My dryer doesn't get as hot as it use to. We took it apart & the heating element shows some wear but nobody seems to have this model. We only have two wires coming from the element. Is the part number 279838 to replace this? I have an Electric dryer.
1 Answer Hello Doris, The model number you provided is a generic model number most likely listed on the sales sticker or use and care guide for the unit. I searched using LEQ8857HQ0 and got this information so you should verify the model number from your units' I.D. tag either on the door area or on the back of the control panel. I would suspect the electronic moisture control WPW10476828 as the suspect for your complaint. Read More...
Ltdan November 18, 2014 for Model Number LER8857EZ1 Put in the new heat element that I got in from you all today cleaned out the lint from fan area and intake but still does not heat up at all. There were only 2 wires to connect both red no orange wire as shown in video. advice?
1 Answer LTdan, You will want to check the thermostats for continuity on the unit. If the thermostats have continuity then there are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. Read More...