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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

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$53.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

1 Answer

Hello Paul. Yes, the timer issue can be because of the no heat. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater 279838 and thermostats 279816 and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hi LT. Start by removing power and pulling the unit out. Remove the back. Remove the left vertical blower wheel cover and the int filter 2- screws under the handle. This will allow you to lift up and slide the lint chute assy part # W11117429 out for cleaning. Use a shop vac to clean the blower wheel collects debris under and in the blower wheel. Then you remove the top by using a putty knife to release the 2-front upper panel corner release tabs approx. 2-3"in from the corners. Lift the top and support it back. Remove the 2-5/16" bolts holding on the inside front panel top half area onto the cabinet. Then lift up and off the panel from the front cabinet. Then reach in from the lower front and release the belt from the pulley tension. Use the slack of the belt to be able to carry the drum out from the front of the cabinet. Then clean all the lint from around the motor from suffocating it altogether. Clean, clean, clean....Make sure the vent is entirely clear and not restricted. Make sure the outside vent cap / hood is opening and closing properly 4-5x /yr. so lint and moisture does not back up and create a restriction causing these issues. Reassemble and make sure the belt routing is exactly correct as before removing it. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Brandon. If reseting the breaker causes the dryer to start heating, then you will need to replace the breaker in the home. The breaker is getting weak and not properly powering the dryer. Hope this helps.

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Sue for Model Number WGD5200VQ

Our gas dryer no longer heats up to dry the clothes. First the automatic drying cycles seemed to quit working, so we are using the timed drying. I have removed and cleaned the vent hoses (not the problem), checked to see if the ignitor is working (it glows orange), yet we don't seem to get any real heat anymore. It acts like the dryer is "drying" the clothes on an air fluff mode, but it is on a regular heat setting, and it takes hours to dry one load. What is the next step? Will this be an extensive repair or is it something we can fix ourselves? Should I just plan to buy a new dryer?

1 Answer

Hello Rick. Sounds like the blower wheel WP696426 probably has gotten something in it and isn't turning. This is going to take a disassembly to determine the cause. You see, the blower wheel is on the motor shaft, so if the drum turns, the motor is turning. I wouldn't get the thermal fuse because if it blows, the dryer will be dead. The heating issue could be the thermal cutout, the heating element WP279843, the high limit thermostat WP696426, the cycling thermostat WP3398128, the timer, or the centrifical switch in the motor 279827. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Also, here is an excellent repair manual: Whirlpool Dryer Do-It-Yourself repair manual 677818L

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1 Answer

Hi Glenda. The volt/ohm meter is part # WB27T10549. Use this to see what each component value is. Here is a link on how to use the meter. You will need full 240 vac to the heater element that needs to ohm closed. If the heater is open or shorted it will not heat. Part # 279838. Make sure it is not shorted to chassis ground. The dryer motor part # 279827, running will close an internal centrifugal switch when it is up to speed to supply the other/half of the 240 vac ( 120 vac) to one side of the heater. You may feel better comfortably with a local qualified tech. to assist. You will need to find and use the supplied wiring diagram in the unit behind the timer or in a folded sheet in the cabinet. Thank You.

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