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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

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$53.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

1 Answer

Kelsie, if the model number of your appliance could be provided in a new question, this will allow the most accurate information to be presented regarding the heating element used with your appliance.

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1 Answer

Terrance, The first step would be to check power coming into the unit and make sure that there is no problem with the power cord or terminal block. If this is ok then check the door switch, belt switch and make sure that there is power getting to the motor.

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Larry for Model Number LEQ8100KQ0

My dryer started kicking out the breaker last week. Would run for 5-10 min then kick out. Will run on no heat. Checked voltage and getting the normal 120 on each side and 240 V across but one of the wires looked melted near the breaker. Checked amp draw, one leg read 46 A and the other 0. Everything checked ok in the dryer except your video showed 3 wires at the bottom of the heats and my dryer on has 2, a wire at the top of the thermostat and a wire on the outside lead to the heater with the 2 hooked together in series. Could not find any other loose wire. Anything I'm missing?

1 Answer

Larry, Check to make sure that the heater is not grounded in the heater housing. This would be the most likely cause of this issue.

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1 Answer

Richard, at the heating element there should have been an orange wire attached to the hi-limit thermostat WP3977767. If that wire is loose or not connected, it can cause the timer to not advance during an automatic cycle. However, if the timer will not advance in timed dry or automatic, it is likely that the timer WP8299778 has failed if the heat is working properly.

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1 Answer

Tom Lang, the correct part number for your model is WP3387747. Turn the power off, remove the bottom panel. Remove the two wires that connect to the element. Take the shield from off of the front of the element tube. There is a 1/4 inch screw located just behind the two element terminals, remove the screw and the element will pull straight out. You will want to put on a pair of gloves when removing the element as that it can be stubborn coming out.

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1 Answer

Hello Pepper, it sounds like most of your components tested good; you'll want to get at least 10 - 13 ohms from your heating element. Test for voltage at the heating element, 120 vac coming through motor terminal number 1 and 120 vac coming through the high limit thermostat. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Hello Billy, Anything that is man-made is prone to failure. That is what the warranty is there for. Give us a call with the model and serial number of the appliance at 1-877-477-7278 and if the part was ordered from us, we will be happy to get that part replaced if still covered by the manufacturers' warranty.

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1 Answer

M, in regards to the burned out odor, you would certainly need to inspect every component to trace the origin of the burn out odor. In regards to the dryer overheating and then not working, it is possible that a contact became stuck in the on position of the timer causing it to over heat, which could potentially cause the burning smell. You will want to test (using continuity testing procedures), the thermostats to ensure they have not burned out, test the heater to ensure that it is not grounded out and test it for a resistance of 7.8 to 11.8 ohms, and test the timer at terminal R to BK to ensure that it is in the open position when the unit is unplugged and in the off position.

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