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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

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$53.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

1 Answer

BJ, Test the heating element to make sure that it is getting 240 Vac. If it is then this will be a faulty element and will need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Thomas, open the dryer door and check the edge of the front panel opening for the drum.

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1 Answer

Mary, You could have one of a few different part failures. The timer WP8566184 could have shorted contacts. Check the motor 279827 centrifugal switch to see if it has malfunctioned. Lastly, check the heating element 279838 as it may be shorted.

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1 Answer

Uncle Ernie, it would be recommended that the voltage supply (240VAC) is checked to ensure wiring is correct. If the power cord is applying voltage properly, the next step would be unplugging the power cord and identifying where there is a ground on the L1 side of the heater. This would either be on the heating element side of the timer or going to the temperature selector as these components would not be operating during an air fluff cycle.

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1 Answer

Bob, Yes, you do have an electric ignitor that glows and ignites the gas. I would also recommend checking the venting system to make sure you have enough airflow. The problem described sounds a lot like an airflow issue.

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1 Answer

Richard, You will want to check the high limit thermostat and the thermal fuse located on the side of the heater housing to make sure that they have continuity. If they are good then also check the cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. If all the thermostats are good then go to the timer and disconnect the red wire. Once it is disconnected then you can turn the dryer on and test the terminal on the timer that the red wire came off of for 120 Vac. If there is no power then the timer will be the issue and if there is power then check the wire to chassis ground for 120 vac. If there is not power on the wire then check wiring all the way back to the motor and if the wiring is good then the motor will need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Cindy, We will need to have the model number for your dryer to be able to assist with your question.

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