1 Answer Barbara, First, reset the breakers in the breaker box, several times, onr oof the breakers may have partially tripped open. You'll need a multimeter to check for 240 VAC at the wall outlet and terminal block of the dryer. If all checks OK, we'll need to remove the front panel and door and circuit check the heater element, thermostas, and voltage check the components. We'll be here when you're ready to start. Good Luck and Thanks Read More...
Harold September 23, 2011 for Model Number 110.66662500 Thanks for the information you provided on the components relating to the dryer's malfunctioning timer and heater, but now, what I need to know is: 1. What each serial numbered component does, and where it is located; 2. The little box next to the timer unit behind the panel; what is its function and part #, and could it be related to the timer's problems? The part #'s mentioned in question are: AP3094244 Dryer thermal cutoff kit; is that the one next to the vent exhaust, or above the heater unit, or both? What function does it regulate? I see that there are 2 units in the kit; are they mounted together, or separately? Which one is the one with 4 wires, and which one has 2? Also, the AP313939 Dryer cycling thermostat, which location is that? I know the Thermal fuse is next to the exhaust vent, but which of the two located there is likely to burn out first, and which gets power before the other? My other dumb question is: what OHM setting on my $4 multmeter should be used for testing the heater and the various fuses? One fuse, near the vent, has 4 terminals; which terminal should be crossed to which other one, to test for continuity? I think that's all. No, I'm not training to be a appliance repair man, just too broke to hire one or to throw unneeded parts at it. Thanks a lot, guys.
1 Answer Harold, The little box beside the timer is the end of cycle buzzer WP694419 it's not likely it is part of your issue with the timer. The thermal fuse kit 279816 contains the hi limit thermostat and a thermal fuse, if the dryer temperature exceeds the rated temperature, the thermostat opens and turns power off the the heater until it cools down. the thernal fuse is a " one shot" fuse, if the temperature exceeds it's rated temperature, the circuit opens, but it will not reset, once it opens, it stays open. the WP3392519 is also a "one shot"thermal fuse, but this fuse controls power to the motor. if it opens the motor will not start or run. All of the thermostats and fuses in your dryer should all have a "closed"(infinite resistance) circuits at room temperature. As for your multimeter, you want to use the lowest resistance setting on your meter(usually R1 or R2) If its a digital display just move the decimal point according to the setting. We hope this was helpful, thanks and Good Luck Read More...
Shirley September 18, 2011 for Model Number ler8648lw8 Part # ap3094854 is this the right element for my Whirlpool electric dryer?
1 Answer Hello Shirley. Based on the model number you provided, 279838 is the correct dryer element. Hope this helps. Read More...
Ray September 14, 2011 Kenmore (Whirlpool) #11069812990- I changed a heating element for a friend who had already bought the part. I installed element only and the dryer worked the first night but the next morning there was no heat. I have not looked at the new element but am thinking the hi end thermostat is probably bad and caused the first one to fry and most likely the new one as well. What are your thoughts on this & how can I test the thermostat(s)?
1 Answer Hello Ray. Once the heat is restored, you will need to unhook the vent and run the dryer with a temperature probe in the venting system. Check and make sure the heat cycles up and down. If not, the cycling thermostat WP3387134 or the high limit 279816 is bad. You will need to test and see which one is not opening. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Tony Knox September 13, 2011 why would the dryer knob not be turn in the dry cycles its runs forever?
1 Answer Tony, The heater should have little or nothing to do with the timer advancing. You could have a bad timer, or broken loose wire. Could you gt us a model number, so we can assist you properly. Thanks Read More...
Tnickelz August 09, 2011 for Model Number LER4634JQ1 I purchased a new heating element, and a thermal cutoff kit, but the parts in the kit are not a match. The new part is not a direct connect, and uses a jumper wire. But if I do it according to the instructions, it leaves 2 wires from the harness that have no place to connect. Is this is how it should be using the new kit, and where would the 2 wires left in the harness connect to?
1 Answer Hello Tnickelz. You will hook the large terminal red wire to one lead on the heater. Then use the jumper and go from the heater 279838 to one end of the thermal cutoff 279816. Then plug the other jumper wire (already in the dryer) from the thermal cutoff to the high limit. Then the last wire plugs onto the high limit 279816. Hope this helps. Read More...
Todd August 08, 2011 for Model Number Part Number: AP3094254 How do I remove the old unit and install the new unit? I am waiting on the delivery of my new replacement. Thank you. Todd.
1 Answer Hello Todd. You will need to remove the screws holding the back panel in place. Then remove the wires from the heating element and the thermal cut-off. Once removed, remove the screws holding the element in place and pull out and down on the element to remove it. Reinstall in reverse order with the new element 279838. Hope this helps. Read More...
Overheated July 31, 2011 for Model Number LER7646DZ1 Heating element tests good (not open) 11 ohms or so, Replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat 2x, both times fixed the no heat problem. But after the 1st replacement, thermal fuse went out 15 days later, bought another set replaced it and it lasted only part of a cycle. The only thing I can see wrong is the heating element plate ( between front and back coils) is charred black over 3/4 of the plate(from the middle of the 2nd from bottom coil to the top end of the plate). Is that normal??? Voltage at plug is 114 and 116 on ea. side. Thermal fuse replaced with Thermostat Kit 279816 for Whirlpool Kenmore Dryers which has fuse and thermostat. Could it be the coils are getting too hot and catching fire? All lint has been cleared from vents, tubes, fan blades, etc.
1 Answer Hello Overheated. Check and see if the temperature coming out of the dryer is cycling. It should go from 120°-155° +- 10%. If not, you will need to replace the cycling thermostat WP3387134, if the heater is good and not grounded out. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
1 Answer Hello Lisa, here is a link to your parts diagram: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/sect/e/z/k/ezkhzoex31.gif . Please refer to #17 to the location of the heating element 279838. Hope this helps! Read More...
Jim July 09, 2011 for Model Number LER4634EQ2 Hello, it takes 2-3 cycles to get my clothes to dry. The heat works. The unit is pluged in to a standard 240 outlet. The lack of drying ability if frustrating. Are these units difficult to work on?
1 Answer Hello Jim. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. Hope this helps. Read More...