Thermal Limiter Parts

When starting my dryer the motor would power up and rotoe the drum and blower. Afetr about 20-30 seconds the igniter would come on then the gas valve would open and I would get heat for about 6 or 7 seconds then it would shut off. I know the burner is suppoed to cycle on and off but once the burner shut off it would not come bqack on unless I shut the dryer off and then back on. I checked for continuity on the thermistor, the thermal fuse and the high temp sensor. All three of them appeared to... Read more

• Won't start

Through 15 years of vibration, the Cycling Thermostat evidently had degraded to the point where one electrical connection or more came loose and caused a short. There is also a possibility that the Bakelite section of the Dryer Cycling Thermostat body separated from the metal base, simultaneously exposing all four connections to a short. The thermostat literally exploded into chunks and dust. There was a heavy arcing and then, thankfully, the thermal fuse blew and shut down power to the short... Read more

• Won't start

Replace the water temperature sensor and still had the error code. While I had the back of the machine open I ran the washer. I traced the black wires from the temperature sensor and wiggled them as the washer was running. At one zip tie every time i moved the wires the washer would stop running and the error code would flash. Sure enough, like many others posted, the vibration from the machine had split the wire. I spiced the wire back together and have not had a problem since. Read more

I actually found a post from another brave soul who was willing to try to fix his, and had stated when he put the new limiter switch in, it fixed the problem. Since the whole back of the dryer needs to come off to get to the burner, and the limiter switch is inexpensive it seemed like common sense to take this approach first. After all, you don't put a new engine in your car if all it needs is a new battery! I also found posts that an overheating event could fry the main control board, and... Read more

I purchased a new heating element. Very easy to fix in about twenty minutes Read more

Simple unscrewed the set screw, removed the broken sensor-moisture part, attached the leads, and reattached the part to the back of the dryer. Took about 4 minutes. Read more

Through 15 years of vibration, the Cycling Thermostat evidently had degraded to the point where one electrical connection or more came loose and caused a short. There is also a possibility that the Bakelite section of the Dryer Cycling Thermostat body separated from the metal base, simultaneously exposing all four connections to a short. The thermostat literally exploded into chunks and dust. There was a heavy arcing and then, thankfully, the thermal fuse blew and shut down power to the short... Read more

Replaced Thermal Fuse Read more

I was having trouble with my Kenmore Front Load washer. It wouldn't finish the wash cycle...it kept displaying an LE Error code. After I went to Google to help diagnose the problem, which was a bad RPS Sensor, I ordered the part from AppliancePartsPros.com. It literally took about 15-20 mins and with the help of my son-in-law, my washing machine was fixed!! It was going to cost me $85.00 for the Sears repairman to walk in my door, not including parts and labor, and I only paid $27.00... Read more

• No heat or not enough heat

GE Gas Dryer Model DBVH512GF1WW began to heat for only a short amount of time so drying clothes took WAY too long. Read online that the first thing to replace are the solenoids. Bought the two solenoids from AppliancePartsPros.com for about $50 total, and it seems to have fixed the problem. Had to watch a few videos to learn to disassemble the dryer, and the job took a couple of hours, but now that I know what I'm doing it could be done in less than 30 minutes. Also, the old solenoids tested... Read more

The 2 sensors that sit on top of the flame tube work together. The Thrmst F should check closed, as should the Cutoff-TML, in order for power to flow to the ignitor. If the Cutoff is open, it is usually because the Thrmst-F did not open soon enough. The Thermst-F will cycle, closed to open, and repeat, however the Cutoff-HTML is a one time switch. If it opens it will not return to closed, and subsequently the ignitor will not glow. Some professionals say that if one of these sensors fail, both... Read more

Out with the old. In with the new. No problem. Dryers are simple and usually can be fixed quickly. appliance pros makes it easier with their tutorial videos and fast shipping! Read more

Viewed the video before I purchased the part. Received the part and put it in. Everything went as planned. Read more

My Electrolux Frigidaire Gas Dryer stopped working and I got an error code E66 that the thermal limiter blew from over heating. The E66 code stops displaying after the initial code and you will then get a door open message. I replaced the thermal limiter and the thermostat just to be sure which part at the problem. The job is hard because you have to take apart the entire dryer and remove the drum. Would be a tough project to complete on your own. Read more

• Doesn't shut off

Looked online. Others said to start with the thermostat because its cheap and easy to fix, so I did. The thermostat is located at the rear of the oven on the back. You need to remove a total of 3 panels to get to it. Do not confuse it with the thermal sensor at the rear of the oven on top. My thermostat was clearly deformed, and I had never run a self clean like other with testify to. Simply replace it - easy. Oven worked like new. Read more