This is the second time I've had to replace the controls on my Jenn-Air stove. This time, 2018, last time 2011. Both times I ordered the part here and the part was exactly right.
This time, having done it once before, it took me about 10 minutes.
A few possibly useful tips:
Control panel or circuit board? When the controls go on this stove, it could be due either to this keypad OR to the circuit board/controller board that sits behind the keypad. So you have to guess which one it is. For what it's worth, for me, both times it was the control panel, and both times the controls broke down slowly. I.e., they kind of went haywire in a few separate steps, instead of all at once.
Find all the screws. First time I did this, I missed the screws on the ends of the control panel, as they were hidden behind the cabinetry. So you need to take out 10 screws: 2 on the ends, four hex-head underneath, and four under the burner knobs. I had to tilt my stove forward to reach the two end screws.
Leave the circuit board connected. When you pull off the control panel, it's connected to the stove by a bunch of wires. You don't have to unplug all the wires, just the one ribbon cable from the front of the control panel to the circuit board. All the rest of the wires connect to the circuit board, not to the control panel. Have somebody to help hold the control panel in place, tilt it down just-so, and you can get a screwdriver in there to remove all four screws that hold the circuit board in place. Then squeeze to disconnect the ribbon cable, and at that point, the control panel is completely free of the oven. My point is, you only need to disconnect one wire -- the ribbon cable. Everything else comes free when you separate the circuit board from the control panel.
The root cause is the door. I have seen several places suggesting that the reason these panels go so frequently is that the oven doors close poorly. So, basically, you fry the panel by repeated excess exposure to heat, because the top of the oven door is always open a crack. That's certainly true on my oven - door does not come close to shutting at the top.
Some people say that replacing the hinges on the door will fix that issue. To do that, you have to pull the oven out of the cabinetry. If I can figure out how to get my (downdraft) oven pulled out of the cabinetry, I'm going to order new hinges here, replace them, and see how that works.
For the time being, I'm stuffing a piece of cloth into the space between the oven door and the control panel to keep the heat down. That's a pain, but it really irks me to have to keep replacing this part because of what amounts to a defect in the manufacture of the appliance.