Control Board

• Won't start

Tried to put refrigerator in defrost mode and defrost would not initiate. Checked the bi-metal and heater, both tested good. Replaced the ADC board and refrigerator went in to defrost. problem solved. Read more

There was no power coming out of the control board to the igniter so I replaced the board and walay it work and all is good in the kitchen Read more

Replaced user interface reinstalled front cover and added in affresh and ran a cycle. Works like a dream now! Read more

The repair guy was going to charge me upwards of $225 to replace the timer in my washer, if in fact it was the timer. I decided with Christmas just a month away that there had to be a better way. After speaking with one repairman, and then searching on the internet, I found out the problem with my Kenmore washer was probably the timer. Sears was going to charge me a lot to ship the timer and they wouldn't allow me to return it if after replacing it, it wasn't the problem. So, I got back on... Read more

Replaced the Control Board. (Originally purchased a remanufactured one from another website, it worked for 5 loads of clothes and the error came back!) One from AppliancePartsPros.com has been working perfectly! Read more

First I googled my model number and found out others had this problem. I was quickly able to find out the cause of the problem. After calling maytag they informed me of a $85.00 appointment fee that didn't include parts or labor. I decided to repair it myself! I ordered the part from appliancepartspros.com and in 2 days the part was on my front porch! I turned to YouTube to watch the video once more on how to install the part. It took two tools and 15 -20 minutes and was very simple. My guess... Read more

• Timer will not advance

Based on an internet search, the likely problem seemed to be a bad timer-control switch because it would hum and click but not advance on a 17-year old washer. Repairman diagnosed the problem as a bad lid-switch-assembly and replaced it - problem solved. Now I need to return the Timer-Control. AppliancePartsPros was very quick to ship the Timer-Control and have a great return policy for an unneeded part. Read more

We have a Frigidaire LGHS2667KE0. I’m not an appliance technician. Our refrigerator was not working. We were getting an error code SY CE on the front control panel. I tried unplugging it for about an hour and plug it back in. The refrigerator would cut off and on for about 30 seconds, shut down and beep leaving me with the same code. I called an appliance repair technician who pulled the main board from the front bottom of the refrigerator. He believed it was a relay and or the... Read more

• Won't start

I purchased a new igniter for the bake assembly and found that it, unfortunately, did not resolve my problem. I measured the resistance of the different points on the gas valve and it was reading within spec so I then purchased this spark module and it did the trick. My gas range is a Kitchenaid kgsk901sss02. I had a LOT of trouble finding where the spark module is located, and eventually found a schematic that shows it's location behind the front control panel of the oven. Upon taking the... Read more

Replaced with a part ordered from Appliance Parts Pros and had appliance repairman install. Read more

Replaced the control panel. Read more

• Timer will not advance

I searched online and found Appliance Parts Pros to have the best price and an instructional video on how to replace this part. I've never done any type of repairs on a washing machine and figured I would give it a try. My washer is approx. nine years old and in good condition, and either I would repair this on my own or buy another. It took me about 30 min. to remove and replace the part, once this was completed I put the washing machine back into operation. Hurray!!!!!! did not have to spend... Read more

This was a newer GE Monogram side-by-side unit that used an inverter compressor. I removed the inverter and used an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of each of the three windings. They were all very close to one another: about 6.8 ohms per winding. I concluded that the compressor was probably not at fault. The inverter kind of burned or chemical-ish, and, when opened, showed an electrolytic capacitor had burst. I replaced the inverter with an overnight part from Amazon. It was the same... Read more

The defrost heater element looked good and had continuity. The defrost thermostats checked good, so that just left the Defrost Module as the likely suspect. I installed a new defrost control module and thermostats. The thermostats were inexpensive and the old ones could have been intermittent, The only "tricky" part was finding out how to get to the back screw that holds the main control panel. Discovered that the return air duct surrounding the control panel needed to come off. It helps... Read more