How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6007996 / WP33002793 Burner Assembly (Gas Dryer)

Burned out burner assembly distorted flame so much as to heat up the high limit thermostat safety switch to the off position. Replaced both burner and switch. Very easy and fast (under 15 minutes). Hardest and most time consuming part was finding the 2 hidden screws that held the front panel on the dryer. Once found, only a one minute job to remove panel. No one on youtube apparently had encountered this model of dryer before ( 1990's Maytag). Easy fix and under $80. Good"how to" video. 

Replaced it 

After bypassing and or testing several parts on the machine, I noticed that the burner tube was sending part of the flame to the top of the flame tunnel where a high limit thermostat was located. By removing and examining the burner tube, I noticed a crack at the end of it. Which allowed part of the flame to curl up in the wrong direction. Thus the high limit thermostat was doing it's job and shutting down the gas valve. Replacing the burner assembly fixed the problem. 

I replaced the burner asy. because it was rusty and had holes eaten in it. I replaced the Coil Kit and this did the trick. It works fine now. 

Installed new burner tube, coil kit and igniter. 

I replaced the burner assembly. Also noticed a loud vibration. Found the hub worn and loose on the blower wheel. Awhile back the gas valve solenoid coils were not always opening the valve, so I ordered them too. 

Replaced burner tube, it had broken away from bracket 

Igniter broke, replaced, Burner tube rusted out, replaced. Now dryer good as new! ApplianceParts Pros, the right parts for the job. 

After establishing with a voltmeter that the controls - timer, cycle thermostat, and high limit thermostat - seemed to be in good order, I replaced the gas valve solenoid coils. Only two screws to remove to get the front panel complete with door off the DG309 (don't even need to disconnect the door switch!) leaving easy access to the gas valve and burner. Some care required to seat the new o-rings properly and not to lose too much of the chassis wiring when stripping insulation for the new connections, but a pretty simple and straightforward installation. Dryer lit right up and the burner cycled properly again. BUT as an amateur repairman I didn't recognize how badly the burner had eroded over the (37!) years and after three or four loads the burner nozzle simply fell off its mounting bracket. With the new part in hand it was plain to see how much of the original had rotted away, finally eating up the spot-welds holding the burner assembly together. Again, a mere minute or two to get the front of the machine off. Unplug the igniter, one screw off to remove the assembled igniter & burner, one screw off and on to swap the igniter to the new burner, and the one screw back in to reinstall the assembly. Again accessible, quick and easy, but take care not to knock the flat igniter blade against anything in the process - it's fragile! Lit right up and now drying again like the workhorse it's been for decades 

Replaced Burner Assembly because the top flame deflector was shot on the old one causing the high temp sensor to trip out