How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP3094138 / 279311 Dryer Igniter Kit

Replaced igniter. 

Thermal fuse. 

Replaced the ignitor. Works like a charm better than it had in awhile, so I guess the ignitor efficiency was diminished for some time. Should’ve changed it sooner, so will know this for next time. The repair took longer than it should have because I didn’t recall how the bracket went in and it is difficult to get to allowing only one hand. Once I figured out the bracket it only took one hand though. Tips: General - take pictures before you remove something and keep all of the hardware. Needed a sheet metal screw from original bracket. Ignitor - attach ignitor to bracket with long screw provided and screw in 1/4-in sheet metal screw to bracket a turn or two to stay in bracket. Bracket has a tab that goes in a slot and a sheet metal screw. Place bracket in position inserting tab into slot and hand tighten screw. Then use small socket wrench to finish tightening. In the end only needed to remove two sheet metal screws on lower front dryer panel and the two screws for the ignitor. The ignitor plug is shaped so it can only be plugged one way, which helps a lot. The dryer had a lot of lint build up inside, which took a long time to clean out. Really need to do this regularly. Manufacturer recommends every two years. 

Bought a dryer repair kit, with rollers and belt, plus hot surface ignitor, flame sensor, limit switches, and coils for gas valve. The tutorial video for the rollers and belt was excellent. Really made the job easy. 

I ordered the thermal fuse and ignitor kit just in case the gas valve coil kit did not do the trick. The fuse was fine when I removed the back panel and tested with a multimeter. I could also see that the dryer was firing when first started, so I figured the ignitor kit was not the problem. I proceeded to remove the front panel and drum to access the valve coils and replaced them using the video referenced on this site. I put everything back together and ran the dryer to make sure the dryer maintained heat. The valve coils were the problem. Easy to replace using the videos provided. 

With excellent advice from ApplianceParts Pros., I purchased a replacement Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit. It was an easy repair. The dryer produced heat as if new. 

Ordered the new igniter from Appliancepartspros.com. Part arrived quickly. The "how to" video was a big help. Thanks. 

I couldn’t figure out what sensor was bad. I changed some of the usual suspects- thermostat, thermistor, high limit sensor n even the coils on the gas valve which tested slightly out of spec on the ohms. Visual inspection of the gas igniter seemed a little odd to my untrained eye. It looked like two parallel prongs that weren’t connected- like this is some sort of spark gap? Yup. Silly me. Of course the igniter functions like a mini oven broiler element. Simple as that if you know what you’re seeing. How my original part got burnt up without leaving any trace debris, I don’t know. Changed the igniter and everything works fine. This also brought attention to my completely out of control lint clogged vent pipe. I should have known better- it’s not just about keeping your lint screen clean. 

EASY PEASEY!!! My dryer is quite old and does not have a 'peep hole' to look though. It does have an access panel but I couldn't seem to open it. After determining that my issue was one of 3 parts (fuse, coils, igniter) I opted to order all 3. First I replaced the fuse because that was the easiest one (remove the back of the dryer). Tested dryer but still not hot. Then, based on what was described in the video, I was able to figure out how to get that front access panel open (putty knife in the right place; took some doing). It turned out that my dryer was even easier to fix than in the video because my coils were right there in the front behind that panel! I did not have to remove the drum to get to them (needed a very short screw driver and managed with a rachet). I changed the coils and decided to plug in the dryer and see if the flame would ignite (then I would know I did not need to install a new igniter). Moment of truth... IT WORKED!!! THANK YOU! I am so proud of myself. My 30 year old dryer lives on! 

First, I replaced the Igniter which had somehow broken in the fire chamber, which yielded no results. I also replaced the Gas Valve Coils for good measure. I then turned to the Thermal Fuse located in the back by the blower housing, I tested the continuity of the fuse with a meter and there was none. I then unplugged the 2 Blue leads from the Fuse and taped their contacts together, bypassing the Fuse. As ONLY a test, I plugged in the unit and started it, immediately the ignition system started and began producing heat. I shut down the system and replaced the Thermal Fuse, unit worked perfectly. Our 17 year old Dryer works good as new!!! Have replaced Drum Rollers and Drive Belt a year ago as well. Great Machine!! Note: Every few months I make sure to inspect the blower housing for clogging of Lint, I make sure the Exaust Line or Tubing is free of clogs, I always clean the Lint Screen Filter with each use. This ensures faster drying times and reduces system failure. Appliance Parts Pros Videos are very very good, and very helpful!!!