Customer Questions and Answers for Probe by Frigidaire

Hello John. It is normal for the oven to be 25° off. If you take the high number and the low number and add together, then divide by 2, you will get the temp of the unit. If it is off, it could be the probe that is the issue.

Hello John. The probe 316233903 reads the temperature inside the oven cavity.

Hello Phil, The F-30 is the failure code for the temperature probe 316233903. You can test this with a resistance meter. At room temperature, (approximately 70°F), you should read somewhere between 1080O and 1100O. If this is the reading you get, there could be a poor connection between the temperature probe and the control. The first test I normally make is the temperature probe connection, disconnected from the control board. This test is made to the probe, not on the board itself. If you get a bad reading, remove the back panel of the oven from behind the stove, and unplug the probe and test it again. If it still reads bad, replace the probe. If it tests good, trace the wiring harness for the broken or shorted wire. As with all man made items, there is always a curve that can throw you. In this case, it is the control board itself. Once in a great while, the control will have a failure of the self-diagnostic circuit. Basically what this means to you is that if the temperature probe and harness test good, the problem can be in the control 5304518661.

Hello Tim. According to the manufacture, if the probe is new and there is still a code, you will need to replace the clock assembly 5303935112. The clock on this model, has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part.

Dan, you most likelyhave a weak or broken oven igniter 5303935066 . You'll need to remove the oven racks and oven bottom panel and program a bake cycle and temperature and observe if the "glow bar" igniter glows until it's white hot and ignites the gas, it should take approximately 90 seconds or less to ignite the burner if all's OK.

Hello Terry. You will need to set the clock for bake, then test the clock and see if it is sending 120 volts to the bake element. There is no thermal fuse on this model, and it sounds like the clock assembly is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. If there is not 120 volts coming from the relay to the element, you will need to replace the clock assembly 316207511. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello John. You need to check at the terminal block and make sure there is 240 volts coming to the unit, and that there are no burnt wires on the unit. It sounds like a voltage issue with the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Danielle. The probe should read around 1100 ohms at room temperature. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Danielle. No, if you have to splice the wires and remove the connector, it does not matter which wire goes to the wires for the probe 316233903 in the unit.

Hello Bonnie, These sensors cause customers a lot of issues because of the connectors. The manufacturers all want to make something that can't be "retrofitted" to another manufacturers' designs. The incorrect connector definitely doesn't mean the wrong part. The manufacturers recommend to connect the sensor with ceramic wire nuts DE81-08428A. While this does complicate the sensor installation, it actually makes a much better electronic connection to the sensor than the connectors made on the sensor and harness. You see, the heat generated from the normal operation of the oven stresses the metal the connectors are made of and causes them to lose electrical continuity quite often. The wire nuts eliminate this occurrence because it is a much better contact. The thing that you won't like is that the unit will normally have to be pulled and the back wall of the unit removed in order to get a proper installation in the ceramic wire nut method. This really isn't that bad. It actually sounds worse than it is. The only thing I feel obligated to stress is discontinue the electrical power supply to the unit and wear gloves. The sheet metal on these units can be ridiculously sharp! Also please note: Do not use electrical tape on the ceramic wire nuts. You can't use regular wire nuts because they will melt from the heat generated by the oven. If you apply electrical tape, when it melts the whole house will stink from the smell of "burning plastic".