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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Main Control Board by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM21564309
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10942C

Fix a refrigerator that won't cool or has temperature control issues with this main control board. Moderately difficult repair, taking 15-45 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Main Control Board (Part Number: OEM21564309)

1 Answer

Mark, You will want to check to make sure that the compressor is running. If the compressor is not running then you will want to check the start relay. If the compressor is running then remove the rear wall in the freezer compartment to check the frost pattern. If there is not an full even frost pattern or just a partial frost pattern after 24 hours being plugged in then it would be a sealed system type of issue.

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1 Answer

Tommy, You will want to check the thermistor in the freezer to ensure that the resistance checks ok. At 0 degrees the resistance should be 42.2K ohms, at 36 degrees the resistance would be 14.4K ohms and at 77 degrees would be 5K ohms. If this checks ok then check the evaporator coils to see if they have a full even frost pattern. If they do then the issue will be with the main control board.

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1 Answer

Hello Sims. AppliancePartsPros is an online company only, and we do not have any local stores. You will need to look in the yellow pages for a local retailer, or you can order from us online and we will send the part to you.

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Jr for Model Number PDS20SFSBRSS

Ge Profile Bottom-Freezer. Symptoms: - No cooling fresh or freezer compartment. - Fan and lights working. (Fan continuously) - Coils dry and clean, no moisture in drip tray under coils. - Compressor body very warm. - These same exact symptoms occurred 3 months ago. After about a half a day, the refrigerator just started to work properly again on its own until last night. model # PDS20SFSBRSS. motherboard model #: WKKT Model No:0158-06-03A GEA Part No: 200D5837G004 Service No:WR55X10416

1 Answer

Jr, If the evaporator coils have no frost on them then you will want to check to make sure that the compressor is running. If the compressor is running then it sounds like there would be a leak in the sealed system in which you would need a servicer.

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1 Answer

P.R. Smith, If it is just the freezer compartment that is not cooling then you will want to pull the rear panel and see what the evaporator coils look like. If the coils have a full even frost pattern then you will want to make sure that the evaporator fan motor is running. If the coil is impacted with ice then the control board would most likely be the issue. If there is very little frost on just the top part of the evaporator then it would be caused by a restrictions or possible leak in the sealed system.

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1 Answer

Hello Marty, You can check for 120Vac at terminal J11 on the board, (brown wire connects here). If the voltage is there, make sure the voltage is to the icemaker jack in the freezer compartment. If there, replace the icemaker WR30X10093. If not at the board terminal, replace the board WR55X10942C. If at the board but not at the jack in the freezer, there is a harness issue.

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1 Answer

Hello Dan. If sometimes the compressor runs and other times it clicks out on the overload, you will need to order and replace the compressor WR87X20798 on the unit. You will need an HVAC tech to discharge and recharge the sealed system.

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Chris for Model Number PDS22SHRBLSS

The temperature display on GE pds22shrblss fridge is out. The interior lights and water supply still work. Cycled the breaker and still nothing on the temperature control display. We can't remember when we last heard the unit running but pushing the buttons to set the temperature does nothing. We suspect the unit is not running to maintain temp but will find out as more time passes. Any suggestions for troubleshooting or parts to buy/replace? Thank you.

1 Answer

Chris, With the issue that you are having it sounds like the main control board is not functioning and this is what you would want to replace.

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1 Answer

Chris, You will want to check for frost on the rear wall of the freezer compartment. If there is frost then You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html As for the compressor not running test for 120 vac to the wires leading to the compressor. If there is no power then the issue will be the control board and if there is power the start relay has failed.

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