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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Main Control Board by Ge

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4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM21564309
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10942C

Fix a refrigerator that won't cool or has temperature control issues with this main control board. Moderately difficult repair, taking 15-45 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Main Control Board (Part Number: OEM21564309)

Asim for Model Number PSS25MGMBCC

Hi Pros, First, thanks for the excellently wonderful site for those who wants to troubleshoot problems in their appliances. I haven't finish reading all the Q&A yet, but decided to mention the problem first. My GE refrigerator PSS25MGMB CC stopped freezing and cooling, meaning the freezer section as well as refrigerator section are not working, but the fans are running fine. Initial troubleshooting revealed that the compressor is not running. While trying to find the voltage across and around start up PTCR relay, when I touched the white wire of the relay with a MM leads, magically the compressor kicked back on, and it started freezing and cooling like normal, I concluded that the white wire of the relay was loose. Kept it running on and off for the 2 days, but third morning the compressor stopped working again. During second troubleshooting session, checked the voltage across comp and line (black and brown wire) at the main board, it shows 120 VAC, figured the startup circuitry is getting 120 VAC, OK, then checked the ohms across all 3 winding (S, R and C), it came out out 6, 6 and 12 approx, figured compressor is OK. suspected bad ptc relay and overload relay, replaced both with new, still the compressor didn't start. During third troubleshooting session, checked the voltage around startup circuitry, able to verify 120VAC at the two relays and the capacitor inputs, but suspected no current flowing thought the startup circuitry, suspected capacitor bad, replaced with new, but still the compressor won't start, no humm, no noise, just cold. So my question will be, can something in the main board causes the current not to flow through the compressor startup circuitry, though the 'comp' and 'line' are showing 120VAC, Please advice. Thankfully appreciated in advance. Sincerely, Asim

1 Answer

Asim, You will want to check for voltage from the overload which would be the black wire coming off the compressor to the orange wire on the relay to see if there is 120 vac at this point. If there is 120 vac at this point then the compressor sounds like it would be the issue. If you do not have 120 vac at this point then you will want to check at the main control board from the blue connector that has 3 spade connectors that it attaches to. Check from the black on this connector to the orange on connector J7 pin 9. If there is not 120 vac at this point then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced. If there is power there and no power to the overload and relay then the issue will be in the wiring of the unit.

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1 Answer

Tim, Your unit does not have any error codes that would be associated with it. Based on the description of the issue that you are having, it sounds more like the main control board would be the issue. The part number for the main control board WR55X10942C.

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1 Answer

Hewlett, The manufactures part number for the "mother board" for model number GSH25JSXBSS is: WR55X10942 / WR55X10942C . You didn't mention what went "bad again" so you may want to check and make sure the wiring on the replacement board is correct.

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1 Answer

Hello Stewart. Remove the water line from the bottom of the freezer door and see if you can get water to come out there. If so, then the line is frozen in the freezer door and you will need to install a dispenser heater kit WR49X10173 in the unit.

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1 Answer

Paul, The first thing that you will want to check is the wire harness at the bottom of the door. Check for loose or exposed wiring that could cause a short to ground. If this checks ok then you will want to go to the main board and check the voltage to the dispenser. Check to make sure that there is 12 vdc and then hit the dispenser and see if there is a voltage drop. If there is then the dispenser board would be the issue. If there is not 12 vdc then the main control board would be the issue.

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1 Answer

Hello Nancy. Try cleaning the coils on the back and see if the condenser fan motor is making noise, you will need to replace it as well.

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1 Answer

Gary, You will need to remove the compressor cover. On the left side looking at the back of the unit. Locate the power cord. The power cored goes into a connector, disconnect the connector. If there is a capacitor board in the plastic housing attached to the power cord then you will cut the green wire between the plastic and the connector. Plug the power cord harness back up the to cabinet and check toensure that the unit is working.

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1 Answer

Hello Guillermo, There is a sensor WR55X10025 on the evaporator coil at the top that can send incorrect information to the board. This and the components you have already changed are the only parts to the defrost circuit except for the wiring in the blown insulation, (unserviceable most of the time).

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Justin for Model Number GSS22JETEWW

The other day the freezer was left open all night and wasnt noticed until the following morning. I closed the door and didnt think anymore about it. Went in to the fridge side later and noticed that it was warm and wasnt getting cool. I checked the freezer side and it was warm too. Unplugged the unit and let sit and now its colder on both sides but the unit runs nonstop....what could be the issue? Also, I removed the panel on the back to clean the dust off the coils and all and felt the compressor and its hot....normal?

1 Answer

Justin, If the unit had time to get to room temperature then it will take 24 hours to get back to normal. Check also to make sure that the condenser fan is running as it can cause the unit to not be as cold. The compressor being hot is normal. During normal operations it will run at about 200 degrees.

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