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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Main Control Board by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM21564309
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10942C

Fix a refrigerator that won't cool or has temperature control issues with this main control board. Moderately difficult repair, taking 15-45 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Main Control Board (Part Number: OEM21564309)

1 Answer

Jeff, You will want to check the thermistors in the unit to make sure that they are reading the proper resistance. The following chart is the resistance values for the thermistors. Thermistor Resistance Temperature(°F)Temperature(°C)Resistance in Kilo-Ohms -40 -40 166.8 kO -31 -35 120.5 kO -22 -30 88.0 kO -13 -25 65.0 kO -4 -20 48.4 kO 5 -15 36.4 kO 14 -10 27.6 kO 23 -5 21.0 kO 32 0 16.3 kO 41 5 12.7 kO 50 10 10.0 kO 59 15 7.8 kO 68 20 6.2 kO 77 25 5.0 kO 86 30 4.0 kO 95 35 3.2 kO 104 40 2.6 kO 113 45 2.2 kO 122 50 1.8 kO 131 55 1.5 kO 140 60 1.2 kO Note: To accurately test a thermistor, place the thermistor in a glass of ice water (approximately 33°F) for several minutes and check for approximately 16K O. If the resistance is not within ranges listed then the thermistors would need to be replaced. If they check ok then the main control board would be the issue.

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J.Moore for Model Number GSHL5KGXCCLS

One of your chat personnel recommended main board part #AP4436216 for $143.67; was needed to solve this issue: the tope interior light bulb doesn't work inside the refrigerator side of my appliance. But when tested in another socket outside of unit, does function. The temperature for the refrigerator side of appliance registers at 84 degrees on door panel temperature board. I am unable to reset to a cooler number. The freezer side of the appliance works fine. How can I reset my refrigerator to a colder degree?

1 Answer

J. Moore, Based on the information, the upper lights not working in the refrigerator section would most likely be caused by a faulty refrigerator light thermostat. If you remove the upper housing and pull it down there is a thermostat that is in between the light harness and the light itself. You will want to test this for continuity. If there is no continuity then the thermostat is bad and you will need to replace the light harness which is part number WR23X10493. For the touch display not allowing you to adjust the refrigerator temp, if the temp will adjust but will go back to the higher number then you will want to check the thermistor to make sure that it is reading correctly. If not then replace the thermistor. The resistance of the thermistor is 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If the temp display just will do nothing at all then the most likely cause would be a faulty display board.

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1 Answer

Hello Jason, I would make sure there is no problem with the microswitch on the dispenser housing shield. If it looks good you should verify 120Vac to this switch.

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1 Answer

Mike, The black wire is you line feed and would go to the terminal next to the blue dot on the relay combo. The orange is neutral and goes to the terminal next to the post on the relay combo.

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1 Answer

Marc, You will want to check the evaporator coils to see if they are impacted with ice or if they have a good frost pattern. If the frost pattern is a good even pattern from the top to bottom then the issue will be with air flow. If the coils have just a little frost where it comes into the unit then there is a sealed system issue. If the coils are impacted with ice and you have a defrost issue in which You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board.

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Dan for Model Number sss25kfmd ww

A year ago, my GE refrigerator quit working and I did research as to the potential reasons. One source indicated to look at the back of the main control board to see if there was any discolorations or bad soldier joints. I looked at the back of the existing board and noticed what appeared as a cold-soldier joint, just like the one in the research I found. Based on what I read, it indicated a replacement board was necessary. I ordered a new board from APP. Installed it and the freezer got cold -10 but the refrigerator stayed at 55. I talked to APP tech and they indicated that perhaps the board was defective and they would ship a new one out. While waiting on the replacement board, I soldier the bad spot on the original board, reinserted and the refrigerator worked fine. The new board came and I put it on the shelf as all was working. The same thing happened again two weeks ago--1 year later, so I put in the new replacement board and the same thing -10 on freezer, 55 on refrigerator. The instructions that came with the board indicated a modification was necessary for certain model numbers, but mine was not one of them. I tried re-soldiering the cold joint again and re-inserted the old board and it worked for a couple of days perfectly. My guess is there is some modification with the replacement board that needs to be done since it worked with the old board but the two new boards had identical results. From researching this, I noticed that the new boards have been improved and model numbers have changed over the years. Suggestions? Thank you.

1 Answer

Dan, Your unit has an encoder board in it and you will want to do what the directions that came in the new control board state. If you do not then it will cause the unit to not work properly.

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1 Answer

Hello Ron. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the main control board WR55X10942C is bad and will need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Harold, This issue would most likely be caused by the main control board sticking in the defrost cycle.

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1 Answer

Hello KL. You need to test for power to the compressor. If there is power there and it does not run, then the compressor may be bad. If there is no power, look for a wiring issue on the unit.

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