Ben November 16, 2012 for Model Number pss26gteww I have a GE Profile that is approximately 3 1/2 years old. I have frost on the evaporator coils. I replaced the thermostat and it did not help. I checked the heater assembly and saw the neoprene seal had hardened and fell apart as I removed the unit from my freezer and observed there was junk inside of it. I did not check continuity at that time. I resealed the tube with a high quality silicon. Is this advisable ? Also, I did the test on the main board and got a reading on J1 just for a brief second. I had to continually remove my probe and reinsert it just to get a reading that was recommended.
1 Answer Hello Ben. No, do not use the silicon to seal the heater, it will need to be replaced. If you test for continuity, it is most likely bad. As for the board, if it test good, it should be fine. Read More...
Bryan November 04, 2012 for Model Number GSH25JFXB WW I recently changed the Defrost Heater and Thermostat in my GE Side by Side Refrigerator. Amazingly, it looks like we fixed it as the refrigerator and freezer have been working fine. However, when I removed the cover to the defrost area the gaskets were badly heat damaged so I need to replace the gaskets. I can't find the part number for the gaskets on the right and left sides of the cover. Can you tell me what the part number is please? Thank you,
1 Answer Ken, according to your model number the replacement heater kit used on your unit should be part number WR51X10101. Thanks! Read More...
Dennis September 17, 2012 for Model Number GSS25SGMCBS I am having a defrost issue with my GSS25SGMCBS. I jumped the terminals at the main control board and verified that the heater does operate so I replaced the control board. The unit used to freeze up every 3-4 weeks. Since replacing the control board, the unit has operated about 3 months before freezing up again. I currently have a single 12'' heater and was told by Derrick via the online chat that the double 9'' AP4355467 upgraded element will provide me a better defrost cycle so I went ahead and placed an order last night. This morning I have been doing a little more research and it appears that the double 9'' unit will not fit in my unit. Can you confirm this? Also, what else should I check/replace to ensure I get adequate defrost? The unit operates/cools just fine in between freeze ups.
1 Answer Hello Dennis, There are temperature sensors WR55X10025 in this design that can cause issues. Three of them to be precise. One in the fresh food compartment, which normally doesn't give a problem, one in the freezer compartment at the very bottom on the left side, and one in the evaporator compartment at the top left of the evaporator. These last two are the ones that are of concern. (All three have the same part number. If you replace them, put some grease in the butt connectors or wire nuts to prevent moisture from corroding the connections and causing a repeat of the failure). The defrost heater WR51X10055 that I would use is the first one listed as it is not a "modified design" that has been put on the market to see if it will work. Read More...
Daniel W. September 08, 2012 for Model Number GSH25KGRBWW On 2/2012 I replaced the defrost heating element PN AP3183311 and the refrigerator/freezer worked fine until around June 2012. I removed the heating element and it looked fine I put 110volts to the element and it heated very well on the work bench. I put it back in and still 2 weeks later I'm defrosting the unit. I replaced the mother board and the defrost limiting stat in August and the unit is still freezing up and having to be defrosted manually every two weeks. Any suggestions please? The wiring connections all look good. Is there a way to manually trip the unit into a defrost to see if the element is getting power and working properly? Thank you Dan
1 Answer Hello Daniel, The most likely suspect in this case is the defrost thermostat WR50X10068. The next most likely suspect would be the evaporator thermistor WR55X10025, the freezer compartment thermistor WR55X10025, and the mother board WR55X10942C. This design cannot be forced into a defrost mode. The manufacturer tells its' authorized servicers to jump a couple of terminals at the mother board to allow voltage to be passed across the defrost heater. This is a major hassle since the connectors on the mother board are really, really small. You have to have special jumper wires to do this. For this reason, technicians go directly into the freezer compartment and test the components with an ohm meter. Let us know if we can assist you further. Read More...
Dennis August 06, 2012 for Model Number dss25pfmdww My freezer coils keep freezing up. Would it be wise to replace the heater element as well as the defrost thermostat to prevent the freezing so it can run correctly?
1 Answer Hello Dennis. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Leticia July 18, 2012 for Model Number GE TFX28PBDA BB I have a GE Refrigerator model TFX28PBDABB that is displaying a code of "de" on the front panel. The freezer is cold but the refrigerator side is just cool. I noticed that the small vent between the freezer and refrigerator is not blowing any air into the refrigerator. Can these type of replacements be done by myself? Sure would appreciate any help you can give.
1 Answer Hello Leticia, This is a defrost issue. You can verify this by checking the back wall of the freezer compartment for a frost build-up. There are only a few components of the defrost system. They are the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, the temperature sensors, and the main control board. Most of the time on these, the defrost heater burns out and the replacement takes care of the issue. Other units have a bit deeper issue which requires the replacement of the temperature sensors and the main board. You can test the defrost heater with a test meter, but normally if the glass tube is blackened, the element has burned out. The defrost heater and the defrost thermostat come as an assembly WR51X10029 with the wiring harness on these units. This is in your favor as it can sometimes be difficult to determine if the issue is with the defrost heater or the defrost thermostat. Be aware that changing only one of the heating elements instead of the entire assembly will shorten the life of the element and I have heard of the new element burning out in the first three minutes. The part comes with an instruction sheet to explain anything you don't understand or you can post a question on here and we will help you out. Also be aware that the defrost circuit cannot melt away any more frost than the frost build-up between defrost cycles. This means that you will have to melt away the ice with a hair dryer to restore normal operation. Read More...
Lisa July 12, 2012 for Model Number HSS25IFMDWW we have a hotpoint side by side and the fridge part isn't keeping stuff cold. We've already replaced the thermostat resister thing, and the motherboard. we had a tech come out a couple of months ago and replaced the thermostat, said that if that didn't work that it was the motherboard, a few weeks later, we replaced the motherboard and now it isn't working again. what else could it be? I hate to be putting more money after bad since we're already out over $300 for this. This time it's really icing up not just in back but on the sides of freezer as well.
1 Answer Hi Lisa. Ohm out the heater terminals for resistance. If it is open (infinity) then it cannot conduct heat for defrost. Heater & Bracket Asm - 12" single glass tube heater. For 9" double glass tube heater use WR51X10101 Item Number: WR51X10055. Check the defrost output at the control board. J9 is the defrost output positive 120 vac. The J7-9 is the 120 vac neutral input at the main board. Thank You. Read More...
Patty June 07, 2012 for Model Number PSS26LSRCSS My freezer coils keep freezing up. We have replaced the thermostat. Checked the heater, that seems to be fine. What do I need to check next?
1 Answer Hello Patty. If the heater and the thermostat are good on the unit, and it does not defrost, you will need to replace the main control board WR55X10942C on the unit. Read More...
Mim728 May 14, 2012 for Model Number GSL25JFPABS Our refrigerator does not properly cool and ice cream is soft in the freezer. Repair technician had us replace the mother board, but it is still not working. We have also cleaned the coils, and left the refrigerator unplugged for 48 hrs. and there is no change- Please Help! Do we replace more parts or Junk It.... I am already out over $300 in repairs. The refrigerator is 9 years old. Thanks! Marie
1 Answer Hello Mim728. You will need to test the temperature sensor WR55X10025 in the freezer and make sure it is good. It should read around 10K ohms at room temperature and around 86.3K at 0°. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...