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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Defrost Heater And Bracket Assembly by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM9549942
Manufacturer Part Number: WR51X10055

The Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly is an OEM replacement part for GE refrigerators. It is responsible for facilitating the defrosting process, which is essential for maintaining proper cooling and preventing excessive ice buildup within the freezer compartment.

Symptoms of a faulty Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly include:

  • Excessive frost or ice buildup in the freezer compartment
  • Inefficient cooling or temperature fluctuations
  • Water leaks or puddles forming inside the freezer
  • Unusual noises or burning smells during the defrost cycle

Causes of a bad defrost heater and bracket assembly can include normal wear and tear over time, electrical malfunctions, or physical damage to the heating element or bracket.

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore refrigerator models.

NOTE: For a 9" double glass tube heater use WR51X10101

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Defrost Heater And Bracket Assembly (Part Number: OEM9549942)

1 Answer

Dave, The 1/8" female spade plug is the size that is required in order for it to fit onto the terminal of the heater and is what would be needed to install the heater and plug it up.

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1 Answer

Desi, The wire gauge that is used would be a 16 or 18 guage wire and you would need a 1/8" high temp female spade connector. If it is just browned on the plastic piece then it should still be ok but that is what would be needed if you decide to change it.

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Ted F. for Model Number GSS25JFMAWW

Six weeks ago garage Freezer was not freezing and refrigerator was getting warm. Opened Freezer door. Cover Panel covered with ice. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed food, shelves, bottom drawer, light cover and light. Scraped ice off of cover panel and removed it. Found coils covered with ice. Melted ice off coils with hair dryer, and wiped down inside of freezer. Once dry put everything back together. Everything worked very well for 6 weeks and then the freezer froze up again. Appears I need a defrost heater. Perhaps I should get a Defrost Limiter Thermostat, too? Your video is clear so repair doesn't look that difficult. Two questions: Garage refrigerator is 12 years old. Appears to be running well but it begs the question: at what point should a Fridge be replaced? I would just as soon keep it going but don't want to waste money. That said, if this repair doesn't sound like the precursor to a bigger problem what are the part numbers for the Defrost Heater and the Defrost Limiter Thermostat for this model? Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Ted, The time to replace a refrigerator is normally when there is a sealed system issue or a necessary part is no longer available. The defrost thermostat is WR50X10068 and the defrost heater is WR51X10055. One of these will most likely cure your issue.

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1 Answer

Dennis, This issue would most likely not be caused by a bad defrost heater in the freezer compartment. It sounds like the issue with the unit would be that the fan in the refrigerator section is not working. You will want to test this and if the fan is not working then you will need part number WR17X12490.

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Allen

Hi, my GE fridge's defrost heater burned out (frost on the back of freezer, the old heater failed the ohm meter continuity test). I had the single tube design, the blue wire on the left is not long enough to reach the connector on the right side of the replacement double tube design WR51X10101. I'm wondering, instead of going through splicing wires and that trouble, because the pink wire on the right of the evaporator is actually long enough to reach the connector on the left side of the heater, could I just simply unplug and move the yellow jumper to the right side of the heater, then I can connector both the blue & pink wires on the left side.

1 Answer

Allen, It would not be a issue to change the jumper wire from one side to the other and have the pink wire to run to the left instead of the blue running to the right.

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1 Answer

Don, When you have a defrost issue it is best to use a hair dryer and clear off the ice that is on the evaporator coils and start with clean coils as it will not cool properly until they are clear.

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1 Answer

Don, You light shield is not hooked on like the one in the video. It has clips on it that if you push in on the sides toward the back wall the clip will release and the light should roll out then unhook it from the top.

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Wade for Model Number GESS25KGMC

Hello, Issue with my refrig: Frost on back of Freezer. No air (cool or otherwise) really coming through to the food side unless Freezer is really cold, but then only makes the Frost thicker. Is it the motherboard or the heater or the thermostat that I should replace? Thanks. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-defrost-limiter-thermostat-wr50x10068-ap3884317.html http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-heater-bracket-asm-wr51x10055-ap3183311.html http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-main-control-board-wr55x10942-ap4436216.html

1 Answer

Wade, You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Warren, You would install the heater the same way as the original heater by screwing to the bracket. What changes is where the wire on the left side goes. The kit comes with a yellow wire that if the original blue wire is too short you can cut the connector off and splice the yellow wire to it to make it longer. This will allow the wire to go across where the other wire comes down the right side of the evaporator and connect to the element. You can connect either wire to the terminals and there is a jumper on the other end of the heater connecting them together.

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