1 Answer Hello Leo. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/173916-kenmore-top-mount-refrig-h2o-build-up.html Read More...
Alex D June 12, 2014 for Model Number GSS25PSMF BS I had been having issues with the refrigerator not cooling . After pulling the rear panel, I found the evaporator coils totally covered in ice. I hire a guy and he change the heater , works fine for two or three weeks and now is the same covered in ice . I don't know if he did defrost enough or what . Because he use a heat gun for feel minutes and then put the new heater and plug the refrigerator at the same time , What should I need to do ?
1 Answer Hello Alex. You need to see if the control board, thermostat, or thermistor is bad and is causing the defrost issue. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Nancyleefed@Gmail.Com June 07, 2014 for Model Number GHS25JFXNBB We just put a new defrost-heater in this afternoon we got from you,and I there was ice on coils when back panel was removed but we mwent ahead and installed the heater but seemed like ok but now I see water coming out of bottom of refrigator mabry too much ice melted but I noticed one of the side wires has fell off when I removed the bottom drawer its not running either should i pull plug my food will spoil i am here alone my son is not home i cant remove back panel and replug the fallen one side wire that goes into heater! I have limited vision, please tell me what i should do?
1 Answer Nancy, The excess water that you are seeing would be caused by the water dripping off the coils when the unit did go through the defrost cycle. You will want to make sure that you get the wire reconnected in the back. If you leave the wire disconnected then the unit will go back to where it is not defrosting and will cause the unit to warm up. Read More...
Kim May 30, 2014 for Model Number ge refrigerator TFX26ZPDA WW Thank you for your response. The testing link states I should test when it's cold but do I need to unplug it? And where do I put the leads to test it, one on each side? Thank you for your help. My refrigerator and freezer are both not cooling enough. It's about 60* in the refrig and 40* in the freezer. I unplugged the unit, let it defrost, flushed out the drain in the freezer and plugged it back in. It worked great for about a week and then the frost in the freezer built up again and it doesn't cool again. Please let me what part you think I should replace or it is time for a new unit? This one is about 14-15 years old. Thank you for your help. Kim for Model Number ge refrigerator TFX26ZPDA WW side by side ANSWER Hello Kim. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Kim May 28, 2014 for Model Number ge refrigerator TFX26ZPDA WW side by side My refrigerator and freezer are both not cooling enough. It's about 60* in the refrig and 40* in the freezer. I unplugged the unit, let it defrost, flushed out the drain in the freezer and plugged it back in. It worked great for about a week and then the frost in the freezer built up again and it doesn't cool again. Please let me what part you think I should replace or it is time for a new unit? This one is about 14-15 years old. Thank you for your help.
1 Answer Hello Kim. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Kris M. May 22, 2014 for Model Number GSL25JFTABS Having a hard time finding the right part # for my defrost heater. Your site says it's part #WR51X10055 but when I looked it up that's a 12" single coil heater and the one I have is a 9' dual coil glass tube? Any help?
1 Answer Kris, the 9" heater listed for your model is part number WR51X10101. This is a manufacturer replacement part and may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to the original. Thanks. Read More...
Stephen May 06, 2014 for Model Number PSCS5RGXAFSS The refrigerator door (side by side) was left open for 17 hours. After closing door and checking temp, it read 94 degrees. After running for several hours the refrigerator side read 63 (coldest) and the freezer side read 22 (coldest). Thinking the coil had froze up, I unplugged for a 2 hours and plugged back in, same temp results. Appliance repair man came out and said it needed freon, but recommended buying new unit, once there is a leak, nothing you can do. Odd that is was working fine prior to this. After visiting your site it sounds like it might be a Defrost Heater first, then some other options. Am I on the right track? Could it have burned out the Defrost Heater or is it something major like the Main Control Board? Thank you for your help and your wonderful website. Stephen
1 Answer Hello Stephen, Leaving the door open will not cause a Freon leak. It also will not cause the defrost heater to burn out. It will however, cause the unit to be hot and will cause a frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You should re3move the back freezer wall and check for an ice build-up. The defrost cycle will never be able to remove the frost build-up caused by this so you will need to defrost the unit with a hair dryer. Plug the unit back in and let it run for 24 hours. If the temperature has not returned to proper levels it will be time to diagnose the issue starting with the fans and compressor, (running or not?). If there was a considerable build-up, defrosting should take care of the issue. Read More...
Angelo March 29, 2014 for Model Number TFX26KRDAWW Hey Guys, I have a GE model TFX26KRDAWW Fridge/freezer, and just bought a Wr51x10055. After it was installed EVERYTHING was GREAT, but now I'm having the same trouble, it's only been about two weeks. My QUESTION is what else could be wrong, could it be the new heater? (the old heater was bad also) Could it be the sensor??? Or something else?? I don't want to replace the entire fridge. Once I replaced the heater, I changed all my settings back to normal, But not I have to set them to the coldest just to get the compressor to kick on again. Help I'm confused! Thanks, you guys STILL rock!
1 Answer Angelo, If there is frost building on the rear wall of the freezer again then the issue would most likely be the defrost timer. If there is not frost and the unit just is not coming back on then the operating thermostat may be causing the issue if you have to turn the dial each time to get it to start. Read More...
John March 25, 2014 for Model Number GSH25JFTC Freezer evaporator keeps building with ice not allowing the refrigerator to cool. I've replaced the defrost sensor twice. Everything works fine for about 2 months then the same thing happens. Could it be the heater?
1 Answer Hello John, The defrost heater WR51X10055 can be the problem. You can test this with a resistance meter (ohm meter). Be sure when testing that the wires are dis-connected and tap on the heater while the meter is touching the terminals in case the element is broken and touching inside the glass tube. One good indication that the element has failed is that the glass tube will be blackened. Read More...
Jessie05@Sbcglobal.Net March 18, 2014 for Model Number WR51X10055 I Have a GE TFX30PP performance profile and there is a defrost build up behind the freezer panel. I had someone look at it but they told me it was a "defrost sensor" that was causing build up and not keeping fridge part cool. He was charging me way too much and wanted to know what "sensor" he was talking about... Was it the deforest heater and bracket assembly or the defrost thermostat or both? Need help and thanks a lot!
1 Answer Jessie05, If the technician was saying a faulty sensor then he was most likely referring to the defrost thermostat which is part number WR50X122. Read More...