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Customer Questions and Answers for Spark Module by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM20941161
Manufacturer Part Number: WB13X32509

The Spark Module is an OEM part for GE cooktops. Located within the cooktop's control unit, this module is responsible for generating electric sparks to ignite the burners. Consisting of electronic components and wiring, the spark module works with other systems to reliably and safely light the gas or electric burners.  

Symptoms of a bad spark module include:

  • Burners not lighting or lighting intermittently  
  • Repeated flashing of the burner indicator lights  
  • Clicking or buzzing sounds coming from the control unit

Causes of a failed spark module can be exposure to moisture, dust or debris accumulating inside the control unit over time as well as mechanical or electrical degradation of the ignition components.

This genuine OEM GE replacement part is also compatible with some Kenmore cooktop models that use GE's control systems.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Spark Module (Part Number: OEM20941161)

1 Answer

BFB, This will not work. This would cause too high of an amp draw and will burn the spark module up faster and cause a potential for a fire. You will want to replace the module.

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Bigmike for Model Number JGP963SEK1SS

I spilled a pot of water on my GE cooktop. All the burners started to click, and as I went to pull the plug, smoke rose from one of the knobs, then a small flame. It went out right away, but when I removed the knob, I saw the harness had been charred. I replaced the spark switch harness, and the spark module. After I changed them and let it all dry out, I plugged it back in, but the clicking was still there. I then tested each wire from the igniter to the valves and they are all fine, so I'm at a loss as to why they keep clicking. There aren't a lot of electrical components, so my only other guess is one or more of the surface burner spark igniters is now bad. Is there a way to figure out if that's the case? And do I replace them all or one at a time!?

1 Answer

Big Mike, The clicking would not be caused by an igniter. This issue would more likely be that one of the switches on the burner valves is bad. Check each one of them for continuity in the off position. If there is continuity then the switch is bad.

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1 Answer

Richard, it would be recommended that the burner head is cleaned thoroughly where the ignitor would arc. Residue can accumulate on the burner head and prevent the ignitor from being able to spark.

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Bottlefedboy

I have a GE /HotPoint 4-burner range with 2 igniter module terminals dead. I checked by swapping the cables so only the front burners spark. Let's assume: A -> Rear Left -> Bad B -> Rear Right -> Bad C -> Front Left -> Good D -> Front Right -> Good If there is no extra connector to test & leverage, can I disconnect the rear ones & multiplex each to a good connection as below: A -> Bad B -> Bad C -> Front Left & Rear Left -> Good D -> Front Right & Rear Right -> Good Please advise. Thanks.

1 Answer

Bottlefedboy, The first thing to check will be the ignition switches that you will test for continuity in the lite mode. If the switches all check ok then the issue would be the spark module.

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Michael Vernon for Model Number JGP963SEJ1SS

I replaced 3 electrodes on our 5 burner stovetop as a couple was not sparking. In the process, one of the connectors to one of the electrodes broke off. As I have not found a way to replace the connector or find a replacement wire with a connector, that burner is no longer used. However, of the remaining 4 burners, only 2 work correctly. Of the 2 that don't work, one does not spark and the other does not create enough of a spark to light. I can replace the spark modules, but I am not finding a kit for the 5 wires (or even just 1) that go to the burners. Please advise. Mike

1 Answer

Michael, Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not provide the wires for the electrodes and you would just want to try to locate a connector locally that you can splice to the old wire to connect it. This issue does sound like a spark module issue.

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1 Answer

Sara, The spark switch for that knob might have been damaged from the water or not correctly seated on the gas valve. If everything checks good and that burner continues to spark then the harness would need to be replaced. WB18X23941

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1 Answer

Hello Blaine, the step-up transformer (120v to 240v) powers the spark module and also supplies low voltage for the indicator lights, if the wire harness or ignitor switches got wet it could have caused an overload which damaged the transformer WB27X21609.

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1 Answer

Danna, with the power disconnected and the gas turned off, you will want to test the switches WB18X23942 first. To do this, you will want to access the manifold section of the cooktop, turn on each burner separately and check for 0 resistance between the red wire on the transformer wire harness and the corresponding switch terminal on the spark module wire harness. The switch terminals are as follows: Center burner (Transformer Red to Module SW5/Gray), left rear burner (Transformer Red to Module SW3/Orange), left front burner (Transformer Red to Module SW2/Yellow), right rear burner (Transformer Red to Module SW4/Brown), right front burner (Transformer Red to Module SW1/Blue). From there you will want to test the transformer WB27X21609 by checking the primary winding for approximate resistance value of 32.8 ? between the 2 brown (input) wires. Then check the secondary windings for approximate resistance value between: White to red - 2.2 ?, Brown to red - 196 ?, Brown to white - 198.2 ?. If these tests pass, then you will want to replace the spark module WB13T10076.

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John R for Model Number JGP975SEK2SS

My GE Profile Cooktop started making the loud lock buzzing sound even though the lock control is in the off position. Everything else is working fine. Burners light normally. But the lock sound (and light) does not go off. I thought I smelled a burning smell, so I unplugged it for 24 hours, but tried again and it does the same thing. I have it unplugged and stopped using it for now. Do you think this could be the wiring harness or could the lock mechanism go bad? Thank you.

1 Answer

John, i would start by checking the lock switch, it should check for continuity when the switch is turned on and open when turned off. If the switch checks ok, you may need to replace the buzzer, part number WB08T10039

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1 Answer

Jg., Your first check should be the ignition switches on the top burner gas valves. When the valves are in the "Off" position there should be an "open" circuit on each of the switches and at the L and N terminals on the spark module. If the switch circuits and wiring check OK, then replace the spark module.

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