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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Main Pcb Assembly by Samsung

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Samsung
Part Number: OEM16861176
Manufacturer Part Number: DA92-00384E

The Refrigerator Main PCB Assembly is a crucial component for maintaining the optimal performance of your Samsung refrigerator. This genuine OEM part controls essential functions such as the 13V and 5V power supplies and the LED display, ensuring your appliance operates efficiently and reliably. Designed specifically for Samsung refrigerator models, the main PCB assembly guarantees a perfect fit and seamless integration, making installation straightforward. By replacing a malfunctioning PCB with this high-quality genuine OEM part, you can resolve common issues like temperature irregularities, lighting problems, and electronic malfunctions, restoring your refrigerator's full functionality. Using this part not only enhances the reliability of your appliance but also extends its lifespan, providing a cost-effective solution for your repair needs. Trust the Refrigerator Main PCB Assembly to deliver consistent performance and support the longevity of your Samsung refrigerator, ensuring your kitchen stays cool and your food stays fresh.

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Questions & Answers

For Samsung Refrigerator Main Pcb Assembly (Part Number: OEM16861176)

1 Answer

Roman, it would be recommended that the defrost sensor DA32-10104N is tested for resistance from the main control while the power supply cord is unplugged. At the connection CN30, the orange wire would be used to test the sensor with one probe there and the second meter probe placed at the gray wire at connection 76 pin 1. With the evaporator frosen up, the sensor should measure greater than 20KO. If it tests good, then the main control DA92-00384E would be the most likely failure.

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Tom for Model Number rf260beaebc/aa

Symptoms: 1. Periodic blanking of displays & momentary random displays, particularly on powering up. 2. Refrigerator working fine 3. Freezer displaying the correct actual temperature, but holding at between 26F and 34F no matter what the actual setting. 4. Freezer disassembly results: a. no ice buildup b. evaporating fan running fine c. defrost bimetal thermostat 0.2 ohms at room temperature (new one had same resistance; which surprised me as I thought it was supposed to be an open circuit at room temperature) d. coil temperature sensing thermistor has the correct approximately 5k ohm resistance at room temperature (checked against resistance curve table) e. could not ohm out the ceiling temperature sensor, but as noted the freezer display is showing an accurate temperature reading 5. I suspect that the main control board needs to be replaced

1 Answer

Tom, If the freezer is holding between 26 and 34 F then this would possibly be a sealed system issue. If there was little to no frost at all on the evaporator coils then you will need to have service out to repair the unit.

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John Reilly for Model Number RF260BEAEWW/AA

I am awaiting delivery of pcb sub inverter, pcb main and compressor overload protector from you. The brown and blue wires to the overload protector do not register 120V and the compressor does not start. Am I on the right track replacing these parts? Also could you tell me if this model has a hard start relay and if so where it is and what it does? The appliance is about 3 years old and was purchased from Lowes. It stopped cooling and freezing and for some time it has made a grinding noise when the cooling unit kicked on. Thank you for your help.

1 Answer

John, With the overload relay not getting 120 vac to it then this will most likely be an issue of a main control board that is faulty. There is not hard start relay on this unit.

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1 Answer

Luke, You will want to check the temp sensors in the refrigerator section as this will likely be the cause for this issue. If the sensor test good then the control board would most likely be the issue.

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1 Answer

Sterling, With this issue, the main control board would most likely be the issue with the unit not working.

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Jim S for Model Number RF260BEAESR/AA-0001

I think I have an issue with the defrost system. Once or twice a day the inside rear wall gets hot to the touch and the compressor and condenser fan won't start. Then when the fridge hits about 60F inside, the comp starts and the fridge begins to cool. At the same time, whatever is heating the rear wall stops and it begins to cool. Seems to only affect the fridge. I have pulled the internal cover over the evap and confirmed that there is no ice and that the fan is working. Condenser coils are clean. Condenser fan runs, except for when it is in this defrost mode or whatever is heating up. What I could find online, seems to point towards main board failure.

1 Answer

Jim, You will want to remove the rear wall of the refrigerator and check the defrost sensor to make sure that it is good. It sounds like the sensor is not reading properly and causing the rise of temperature if it is staying in defrost for more than 1/2 hour. If it is only about 30 minutes then the issue will be normal. If the sensor checks ok and it lasting longer than 30 minutes then the issue would be in the control board.

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