Jeramy July 09, 2017 for Model Number DV5471AEP/XAA Do I need a 2 wire or 3 wire heating element for this model?
Becky July 09, 2017 for Model Number DV365ETBGWR/A3 Our dryer is making a squeaking sound. We have tried replacing the belt and checked the rollers (front and back). The heating element assembly seems like it is loose and makes a metal on metal squeak sound when I touch it with my hands. Is the heating element supposed to be snug or should it rattle? Thank you Becky
1 Answer Hello Becky. It sounds like you need to check the idler assembly DC93-00634A and see if it is bad and will need to be replaced. Read More...
Jacob July 01, 2017 for Model Number Dv331AERX-AA01 My dryer quit heating and was going to order parts. But, the dryer has power going into back of dryer but none of the buttons will work. They don't even come on so now I'm not sure what all I need to fix my dryer.
1 Answer Jacob, If the unit started out not heating then the display going out then this will most likely be caused by a faulty main control board. The main control board for this unit will be DC92-00382A. Read More...
Jeremy June 06, 2017 for Model Number DV456EWHDWR/AA-0001 For heater element assembly there are 2 options on your site ( with 2 wire or 3 wire?) is the wire count , what plugs in to assembly? Which model # do I need? Thanks
1 Answer Jeremy, According to the manufacturer the heater needed will be a 2 wire and is part number DC97-14486A. Read More...
Jimmer April 18, 2017 for Model Number DV350AEP/XAA-0000 Dryer shuts off during mid cycle so clothes aren't dry. It does produce heat and plenty of air flow out duct. When it shuts off the power button is not responsive, it doesn't power up the control board. I then have to wait a 1/2 hr or more and then the power button will reactivate the power board. Is this a thermistor or main board problem
1 Answer Jimmer, The most likely cause for this issue will be a faulty main control board which is part number DC92-00382A. Read More...
Kevin February 14, 2017 for Model Number Dv422ewhdwr/xaa Hello, Is DC97-14486A interchangeable with DC97-14486D? Samsung told me my part is DC97-14486D. Your site states DC97-14486A replaces DC97-14486D. Will it fit my machine?Dv422ewhdwr/xaa
Kyle Mincey December 31, 2016 for Model Number DV328AEW/XAA-0001 I don't know if it is the 0001 or the 0000 model suffix the model number on the machine does not specify. Here is my problem. The dryer seems to heat as it should. The clothes get hot but it takes forever to dry them. Sometimes as many as three cycles for a complete dry of the clothes. I haven't torn it apart just yet just looking for possibilities to check before I do.
1 Answer Kyle, First check and make sure the exhaust vent pipe and vent hood isn't clogged with lint, kinked, collapsed, twisted or blocked. Then remove power and the front panel and check and clean the outlet duct and blower housing of any lint build up or debris. Then check for proper heat and operation. You may qalso want to check the washer for a proper drain and spin. Excess water left in the clothes from the wash cycle will extend the dry times. Read More...
Shane November 29, 2016 for Model Number DV48H7400EW/A2-0000 Dryer not heating: I have checked input voltage and relay voltage, as well as continuity of thermostat, heater and the thermal fuse on the blower housing. I replaced the thermal fuse on the duct housing (the one mounted on the bracket) and that corrected the issue for ~half a load of laundry. After that load the same issue re-occurred. I just took the dryer back apart to check the continuity of the replaced thermal fuse and it had again been tripped and measured no continuity. I have checked the entire flow path and it is unobstructed, I am very diligent in cleaning the lint screen before every load and there is plenty of air flow coming out of duct outside of house. My question is what is causing the thermal fuse on the duct housing to fail this quickly? Is this an indicator that my control board needs to be replaced? I have read other posts saying that this is a common failure on this model, but I would like to have some sort of affirmation prior to spending ~$90 on a new control board. Additionally is there anything I can check (ohm-meter or otherwise) on the control board to see if there is some sort of fault present? Thanks in advance for any assistance that can be provided.
1 Answer Shane, This issue would likely be caused by the relay for the heater sticking on the control board causing the thermal fuse to blow. This would require a new control board. Read More...
Barry October 04, 2016 What is the difference between the two wire vs 3 wire heating element-for a samsung DV365etbgwr/a3 >? The wall outlet is a 3 wire 240 connection/
1 Answer Barry, The heating element that is showing for your unit would be part number DC97-14486A. Read More...
Jb September 11, 2016 for Model Number DV448AEP/XAA Samsung dryer DV448AEP/XAA - the dryer turns on and spins without issue however there isn't heat, the air blows cold. All vents etc are clean and the dryer isn't set to air fluff. Is replacing the Heating Element Assembly sufficient? Does the heating element assembly contain the Thermal Fuse? If not would recommend changing that at the same time? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
1 Answer JB, The heating element does have the thermal fuse and high limit on it. It would be recommended to do a continuity test on all the parts to make sure that they have continuity. If they check ok then the issue will not be the heater or thermal fuse or high limit in which case if all the thermostats check ok There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the control board. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the control board side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad . Read More...