Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Control Board (Main Control Board) by Whirlpool

Art, On the schematic the defrost thermostat will be called the defrost terminator and on the unit will be located at the top of the evaporator coil. You can test the defrost thermostat and heater for continuity. If there is continuity then the adaptive defrost board is at fault.

Hello Hanis. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer W11227239. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Pete. Check the cold control and see if it is bad. If not, then the unit is stuck in the defrost cycle and you will need to replace the board WP12566102 on the unit.

Sebastian, There are several possibilities, First, check the freezer back wall for a build up on frost or ice, if there's a build up you may have a defrost issue. While in the freezer compartment, listen and "feel" for the air movement from the evaporator fan WPW10128551. Then move over to the refrigerator compartment, remove the cover in the left rear corner and check the auto damper 67003519 and make sure the damper door is not stuck or sticking closed.

Hello Doug. Based on the information you provided, you will need to order and replace the filter head on the unit.

Hello Allan. No, not all, this is the instructions for this board.

Hello Allan. 1. Disconnect the unit from the power source. 2. Open the fresh food door and remove any items on the top shelf. 3. Remove the light shield and the temperature control housing. 4. Connect the refrigerator to a wattmeter. 5. Make sure compressor is running (cold control closed). 6. Using an insulated number 22 jumper wire short between L1 and Test; this will put the refrigerator into a defrost for approximately 23 minutes. 7. The watt meter should read between 500 to 600 watts depending on the model.

Hello Allan, This is the old Amana control. You don't short terminals on this control since if you short terminals on this configuration, you can too easily fry the microprocessor.On this configuration you press the door switch in 6 times in 5 seconds. If the control is operational, the unit will go into the defrost cycle. As per the manufacturer, the door switch presses have to be slow enough to be, in their own words, "intentional". Shorting wires together on this model as per the manufacturer is "asking for trouble".

Hello, The fan not running is the cause of the excessive heat around the door. Correct the fan issue and the heat around the door will be corrected also. The fan motor 12002738 is supposed to run anytime the compressor is running.

Hello Gus. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the compressor is building pressure and you will need to replace the compressor W10160407 on the unit. Hope this helps.