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Customer Questions and Answers for Hi-Limit Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18027138
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3977767

The Hi-Limit Thermostat is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. It functions as a critical safety device that monitors and controls the temperature within the dryer, preventing it from overheating. When the dryer reaches a temperature that is too high, this thermostat will cut off the power to the heating element to mitigate the risk of fire.

Symptoms of a bad Hi-Limit Thermostat include:

  • Dryer not heating adequately or at all
  • Clothes taking longer than usual to dry
  • The dryer repeatedly shutting off during a cycle
  • Excessive heat emitted from the dryer even on lower settings

Causes of a bad Hi-Limit Thermostat can include a malfunction due to electrical issues, lint buildup causing restricted airflow and increased temperature, or failure of other components like the cycling thermostat that can cause the dryer to overheat.

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Hi-Limit Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18027138)

Nat for Model Number I have an Estate dryer Model EED4400WQ0

Dryer only heats up on auto sense drying low heat and intermittent or no heat on auto sense drying high heat/timed dry high heat. i already replaced the dryer cycling thermostat, dryer high limit thermostat, and the thermostat above the heater (came with the thermal cut off kit). I did not use the lower cut off switch as I installed the dryer high limit switch (as that was the original part. Initial test i had heat on auto sense high heat and timed drying but when i actually put clothes it did not heat up again. I did continuity check on the heater coil and I am having ohms reading. don't want to replace more parts unless i know exactly what's wrong with it. Thanks.

1 Answer

Hello Nat, for further testing you will need a multimeter. With the dryer not heating check that there is 240v on the dryer rear terminal block between black L1 to red L2, If there , then access the rear of the dryer console and at the timer check for 240v across the timer terminals with wires red to black with dryer running, if it shows 240v replace the timer.

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1 Answer

Ty, With getting intermittent or no heat only on the hi-temp setting then this would most likely be a temperature switch that is faulty and needs to be replaced. The temperature switch part number is WP8578354.

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1 Answer

Lisa, You will want to check the venting of the unit to make sure that it is clear from the blower housing to the outside of your home. If the venting is clear then it sounds like the issue will be that the timer contact is stuck and would need to replace the timer.

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1 Answer

Hello Paul, you did not mention which cycle you were using when this occurs. If the dryer is set for time dry and the timer does not adance then replace the timer W10846428. If the dryer is set to auto dry and the timer is not advancing then check the yellow/red wire from the moisture sensor control board to the moisture sensor bars on the lower rear bulkhead.

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1 Answer

Miguel, On your fabric selector switch in the back, there are two wires that can be tested for continuity. If the switch never shows closed or continuity it will not allow voltage to the timer motor. The thermostat control that has 4 wires needs to be tested at the 2 purple wires for 2k ohms of resistance. If the control thermostat reads open that will be your issue. If these tests pass then replace the timer itself.

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1 Answer

Tyler, With the unit not working on auto cycle then this would most likely be an issue with the dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134.

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Ryan for Model Number LEQ8858JQ0

My dryer had no heat so I replaced the heating element and the hi temp thermostat, which was burnt. Hooked it all back up but still no hea . It is an older model than the one in the repair video and only has 2 wires that hook up to the thermostat (one to one end of the thermostat and the other to the heating element) not 3 wires. Is this correct? I have looked every where for a wiring diagram or picture of how it should look, can you help me with that? Thank you

1 Answer

Hello Ryan, you'll want to make sure you have 240v at the terminal block. If present you'll want to verify you are getting 240v at the heating element. We've emailed you a wiring diagram so you can trace your voltage to see where you are losing it at. Thanks!

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