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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18028221
Manufacturer Part Number: WP4451042

The Thermal Fuse is an OEM part for Whirlpool ovens. It is designed to monitor the oven's temperature and automatically cut off power to the heating elements if the temperature exceeds a certain threshold. It acts as a failsafe to prevent excessive heat buildup and potential damage to the oven or surrounding areas.

Causes of a faulty oven thermal fuse can include a power surge, overheating, or electrical component failure. These factors can result in the thermal fuse blowing; interrupting the power supply to the heating elements and preventing further operation of the oven.

Symptoms of a bad oven thermal fuse may include:

  • Oven not heating up at all
  • Error codes or error messages displayed on the oven's control panel
  • Oven appears to be powered off

This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.
For the 248F thermal fuse with the insulated female spade and plug order WP4456654.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM18028221)

1 Answer

Hello Jim, If the fuse has a 1/4 inch terminal on one end and a 3/16 inch terminal on the other end, the WP4451042 is the correct fuse. If one end has a plug and the other end is a 1/4 inch female spade you will need WP4456654.

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1 Answer

Louis, The model number you supplied is a "Free Standing" Gas range. It does not have an Oven Thermal Fuse. If it did it would be mounted on the back of the oven cavity, on the back of the range. What seems to be the issue?

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David for Model Number KEMS308SSS05

Hello, This is a Kitchen aide electric wall oven. We have talked to you about this problem. and the problem is that the baking part of the oven doesn't reach the desired temperature nor holds the temp. study. Your suggestion was to replace the temperature sensor, which we did. but it didn't make any difference and the problem is not solved. is there anything else you can recommend to fix this problem. the broil part of the oven seems to be working fine. Thank you again in advance. David

1 Answer

David, You will want to check the wiring between the oven sensor and the main control board. If the wiring is ok then the main control board will be the issue. The control board part number is WPW10119143.

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1 Answer

Hello David, your model's parts list shows the oven temperature control as a thermostat with the sensing bulb located in the oven cavity, this is the only temperature control for the oven. Since you say the same problem is occurring it may be a heating problem and not a sensing problem. The bake burner uses a safety gas valve with a glow bar ignitor. If this is still the original ignitor it may be worn and not allowing the valve to open correctly during bake. The ignitor is checked using an amprobe on the ignitor circuit and the amp draw should be between 3.6 to 3.2 amps, if less then that the valve operation and oven heating will be affected. You can also view the ignitor in use to see if it is glowing for more then about 45 sec and there is no gas flow to the burner it is weak and needs to be replaced, the ignitor is part 211541P.

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1 Answer

David, it would be recommended that the damper control assembly WPW10196393 is inspected to identify if it is open or closed. If it is open, then the air return ducts will need to be inspected to identify if they are blocked up (clear as necessary). If they are not blocked up, then the freezer evaporator will need to be inspected for a partial defrost. If there is a thick blanket of ice built up on the top of the evaporator, this would indicate a partial defrost issue. A partial defrost would normally be caused by the defrost thermostat W11260592 opening up too soon. If the damper is not open, the user control will need to be put into a service test mode and set into service test 6. This will cause the unit to open and close the damper. If the damper opens and closes, the next step would be to test the refrigerator thermistor for resistance. The thermistor W11478401 should measure 10KO at 77°F, 29.5KO at 36°F, and 86.3KO at 0°F. If these items all test within tolerance, then the main control WPW10503278 has failed and would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

David, The first check would be the oven temperature sensor WPW10131825 / W10131825 Sensor, and wiring. The sensor can lose its calibration after years of high heat and grease splatters, etc. If the thermal fuse were at fault, the oven would go "dead" and not operate at all. You also want to check and make sure you're maintaining proper voltage to the oven when in use. Thanks,

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1 Answer

DeeDee, with the power supply to the oven turned off, the wiring may need to be inspected for any loose connections or breaks. If the wiring tests good, then the most likely failure is that the relay in the main control 8302967 is not able to close. Unfortunately, the main control has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available.

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1 Answer

Brenda, if you will submit another question with the model number, We should be able to help you with your oven problem.

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1 Answer

Hello Karen, using a multimeter test for 120v at the control board terminals P19-1 black to P19-3 white, then 120v at P16-5 to P16-7, and lastly for 24vac at terminals P16-2 to P16-3. Failure in a self-clean cycle is usually due to a slow cooling fan causing an overheat and tripping safety thermostats or thermal fuses,

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