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Customer Questions and Answers for Lid Switch (Washer) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18072981
Manufacturer Part Number: WP22003804

This washer lid switch is the safety interlock that tells the machine the lid is closed. Replacing a worn switch restores proper spin and cycle operation and helps prevent nuisance shutoffs when the lid is bumped or opened.

  • Detects lid position and enables washer operation only when the lid is closed
  • Interrupts power with the lid open for user safety
  • Typical symptoms of failure: washer won't start or won't spin, stops mid-cycle, or runs only when pressing down on the lid
  • Mechanical position sensor; it does not lock the lid
What's included: 1 lid switch Install notes:
  • Disconnect power before servicing; verify the tub is fully stopped
  • Access is typically from the main top or cabinet—remove screws or release spring clips as designed
  • Note wire routing and mounting orientation; transfer any existing hardware and secure the ground as originally installed
  • Test lid-close operation before reassembling and running a cycle

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Lid Switch (Washer) (Part Number: OEM18072981)

1 Answer

Manuel, Unfortunately we do not have a video that pertains to your design of model. To access the lid switch for your unit you will want to remove the 3 screws at the top of the control panel and roll the panel forward. This will expose the lid switch to be able to be changed out.

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1 Answer

Hello Henry, You will need to lift the main top of the unit to take lid switch off. To do this you will use a flat blade screw driver on either side between main top and front panel. There is a spring clup on either side that you would have to push in on to release.

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1 Answer

Hello Rick, The way that you would test the lid switch on this unit is to check continuity between L1 (line) and SW (machine). You should have contact between these 2 points whether the lid is open or closed. You also check between L1 and M (motor). With lid open you should not have continuity and with lid closed you would have continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Wynell. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the lid switch WP22003804 is bad on the unit and will need to be replaced. Check and make sure the plunger WP22002754 is good on the unit. If not, you will need to replace it as well.

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1 Answer

Hello Lou. It could be the timer, but I still would lean towards the lid switch WP22003804 or the pressure switch 22002706. Be aware that this type lid switch does give a lot of trouble and if it is an adjustable design, the plunger part of the switch itself may need to just be pulled out 1/8 of an inch or so. If the problem happened right after the lid was dropped, this adjustment might be all you need. I hope this helps you and have a great day!

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1 Answer

Hello Mohd. Check and make sure the belt WP22003483 is good on the unit and the hoses WP22003285 are not clogged on the unit. If the hoses are clogged, you will need to replace the hoses or clear them out. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Bahman, You should run a resistance check, for safety reasons. But, if the lid is down, and you jump from the blk wire,L1 to the yellow wire M, with a jumper the motor should run momentarily. If you put the timer dial in the final spin/drain and pull out the knob, if the motor does not start/run, you have a bad lid switch,. Be careful, this is a live voltage test, you don't want to short any components or yourself. Good Luck and Thanks

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