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Customer Questions and Answers for Direct Drive Washer Motor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18030759
Manufacturer Part Number: WP661600

Note: The manufacturer no longer includes the motor shield WP3946532 mentioned in the video. If needed, order it separately.

The Direct Drive Washer Motor is an OEM part for Whirlpool washing machines This motor drives the agitation, spinning, and draining processes during the laundry cycles, ensuring clothes come out clean and well spun. 

Causes of a bad Direct Drive Washer Motor can range from wear and tear over time, overheating due to overloading or obstructed movement, and electrical failures like short circuits or blown capacitors. 

Symptoms of a failing Direct Drive Washer Motor include:

  • The washing machine not agitating or spinning correctly
  • A noticeable decline in the washer's performance
  • Unusual noises, such as humming or buzzing, indicating the motor is struggling

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Motor (Part Number: OEM18030759)

1 Answer

Jim, With the unit sporatically not spinning, this issue would sound more like a problem with the timer. The buzzing would indicate that the spin and agitate are active at the same time which would indicate a stuck contact in the timer in which would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve. It sounds like the unit is trying to fill with water. Check and see if you turned the water back on after the repair. Thanks.

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Ryan for Model Number 11027822790

I have a 16 yr. old Kenmore washer (model# 110.27822790). Recently, my washer died while I was doing a large load of towels. I heard a "pop" and the circuit breaker in the garage tripped. Now, my washer will not agitate, spin, or drain. I removed the wet towels and manually drained the tub. The washer will only fill now and when it is on any other portion of the cycle, it only hums and usually produces a burning smell. Sometimes after ~20 seconds, I hear a "click" and then the humming stops. Sometimes, the humming does not cut off until I pull out the power cord or pull the timer out. Here is what I have checked so far. The coupling between the motor and gearcase looks OK and is intact. I removed the motor and I can turn both shafts of the motor by hand without issue. I detached the pump and I can turn this hand by also - I don't see any impeller damage or anything stuck in the pump. I can also turn the half of the motor coupling that is still attached to the gearcase by hand. When I turn this half of the motor coupling, I can make the agitator and tub move depending on the direction I turn the coupling. Given this, I don't think anything is mechanically jammed between the gearcase, motor, and pump. I have a co-worker who does part-time appliance repair work. He thought the problem could be the start-up capacitor or the motor itself. I removed the capacitor and had my co-worker check it. He said it was fine. My co-worker lent me a spare motor to try. I installed this spare motor but still had the exact same problems. I also checked the resistance on various windings for my motor and the spare I tried. All the resistance readings appear to be in spec and the readings were comparable between the 2 motors. I found the resistance spec.s at the following site: http://www.repairave.com/washerrepair_wpl_motor.asp. Lastly, I think the lid switch works fine. If I put the washer on spin and leave the lid open, the machine will not hum. However if I lower the lid, the washer will start humming but nothing else will happen. I would appreciate any insight you could give me to help troubleshoot this problem. I am not impressed with the quality of newer appliances so I would like to get my current washer running again since it is tried and true. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. Ryan

Paul for Model Number LWA20AW

Removed motor with pump. Removed pump from motor (pump in good shape) Cleaned motor thoroughly. Replaced pump then re-installed motor. Motor works good without load (belt off). When running cycle on washer it will go through the wash cycle then not be able to restart at spin or agitate. So it gets through a cycle and stops, tries to start next process with buzzing, then kicks out. After turning machine off for a while it will sometimes continue next cycle, sometimes not. Capacitor?

1 Answer

Hello Paul, This design model was notorious for the spin bearing 646P3 seizing. The unit will sometimes make it through a cycle and then not. The problem will normally not have anything to do with the motor.

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1 Answer

Chad, You will want to check the pump to make sure that there is nothing causing the pump to not turn. If the pump will not turn then it will cause the overheating motor issue. If the pump checks ok then the most likely issue would be that the spin and agitate contacts in the timer are stuck and the timer would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Jim. If nothing is locked up, then you will need to replace the motor on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello James. No, you will need to replace the motor. Usually that is a sign of motor failure.

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1 Answer

Hello Darren, I would remove the drain pump from the front of the motor and try the drain cycle to see if the motor will spin. If not, verify 120Vac and neutral to the motor during the spin cycle, (with the lid switch bypassed). If voltage is getting to the motor and the motor is not turning, the motor will have to be replaced. If it is not getting the voltage you will need to use the wiring diagram for the unit to back trace the harness to locate where the voltage is being dropped. Model TAWS800JQ0

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1 Answer

Hello Tyler, If you unplug the unit while it is filling and the water keeps filling, the water valve has failed. If the water stops when the unit is unplugged, the pressure switch and hose should be checked. If the unit will not spin the body should be removed, the lid switch bypassed, the clips removed that secure the pump to the front of the motor and slip the pump off of the motor. Now try the spin again. If it works, there is debris in the pump or it has failed. If this locates no problems, the inner tub should be pulled and check the drive block for damage and make sure there are no items of clothing between the tubs. If nothing shows up there, the gearcase will need to be pulled and the problem will either be in the brakes, clutch, or internal to the gearcase.

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1 Answer

David, You will want to test to see if the motor is getting voltage when the unit is supposed to be in agitate or spin. If the motor is getting voltage but not starting then the motor is faulty and would need to be replaced. Also test the timer from the spin when on agitate as there may be a sticking contact that would cause the unit to be sending voltage that is sending power for agitate and spin.

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