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Customer Questions and Answers for Dual Water Inlet Valve by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18018171
Manufacturer Part Number: WP2188542

This dual water valve is an OEM Replacement Part intended for use with Whirlpool refrigerators that feature both a water dispenser and an ice maker. The purpose of this refrigerator water inlet valve is to supply the necessary water to both the ice maker and the water dispenser in a controlled manner. While its appearance may vary from the original part, it maintains identical functionality and is authorized by the manufacturer as a direct replacement.

Causes of a bad valve can include mineral buildup from hard water, wear and tear over time, or electrical issues. A malfunctioning valve can lead to problems with water flow, affecting both the ice maker and water dispenser.

Symptoms of a bad inlet valve may include:

  • Insufficient ice production or no ice at all
  • Low water pressure or slow water flow from the dispenser
  • Water leakage from the valve area

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dual Water Inlet Valve (Part Number: OEM18018171)

1 Answer

Victor, The solenoid on the valve has probably got a failed circuit. If the coil does not activate and lift the plunger, the water will not enter the valve, no matter how clean it is. Replace the water valve WP2188542 then check and make sure you have 120 VAC on the wires that attach to the "Green" solenoid, when the ice maker reaches the fill portion of the cycle (rake arm in the 1 to 2 o'clock position).

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1 Answer

Hello Ken. If the water is leaking into the unit, you will need to order and replace the valve on the unit.

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1 Answer

Athon, If you press the water dispenser paddle, and you can hear the actuator switch "click", Then it's most likely the fill valve WP2188542 has failed.

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1 Answer

Hello Thomas, Normally the issue is caused by water conditions although not all the time. You could replace just the mold of the icemaker but may want to replace complete icemaker assembly. The motor could have been damaged along with other components such as the thermostat.

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Les for Model Number Kitchenaid superba KSRB25QGBL01

A while back we began to get hollow ice cubes, and the cubes would stick instead of cleanly emptying from the bin.They would have to be manually removed. My wife said there was water in the door dispenser tray the other day, possible leak, but stopped. It no longer makes ice. I have water through the door, water to the solenoid obviously, but no water in the line coming up to the ice maker. The line on the back of the unit is not obstructed, it's empty. I pulled the coneections,no obvious burns or shorts, but didn't check the voltage as my wife is in bed sick and I'm working alone. Since I have water everywhere except coming out of the solenoid for the icemaker, I'm thinking I need to replace the valve. Am I on the right track, or should I check something else first? Hard to force it to trip from behind the unit. Thanks in adavance.

1 Answer

Hello Les, You can test voltage by jumping the terminals t to h on the Icemaker module. If you have power then you will want to check to make sure that the fill tube is not frozen. If the fill tube is frozen or not the valve would be at fault.

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Steve for Model Number Whirlpool refrigerator model 71

Hi! The ice maker will not produce any ice. I have checked the water pressure in the line coming from the wall. It has plenty of pressure. I made sure the line coming from the inlet valve up the back of the refrigerator to the ice maker was clear also. The ice maker motor runs and the tray arm rotates through the cycle like it would if it were making ice. The water dispenser on the door started leaking (dripping) water constantly about 2 years ago. I ended up disconnecting it since i was unable to fiqure out why it was leaking. Could the water inlet valve be the issue with either of these problems? Thanks for the advice, Steve

1 Answer

Hello Steve. You need to check and see if there is power going to the water valve when the icemaker cycles. If so, replace the water valve on the unit. If not, or the icemaker does not cycle, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit. Also, check and make sure the fill tube on the unit is not frozen and clogged. If so, replace the water valve and thaw out the fill tube. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Joel, This can be the fault of the water inlet valve or the contacts in the ice maker that send the voltage to the water inlet valve. You should put a test meter on the terminals of the ice maker and watch the meter when the ice maker cycles. If you see 120Vac, the water valve WP2188542 has failed. If you never see the 120Vac, the ice maker contacts are burned and the ice maker motor module W10190935 will require replacement.

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1 Answer

Hello Juan, The issue with the reverse osmosis system is the pressure drop. You see, the water valve is closed by water pressure. There is no spring in the water valve to assist its' closure. If the water pressure is low as a R.O. system causes the pressure to be, the water valve cannot close properly. It simply takes more water pressure than the R.O. system can pass to close the water valve properly. If your model has a filter on it, you are trying to filter the water twice anyway, so the R.O. system being hooked up to it is redundant. Here is more information on R.O. systems: Reverse Osmosis Water Supply IMPORTANT: The pressure of the water supply coming out of a reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the refrigerator needs to be between 40 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa). If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa). If the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system is less than 40 to 60 psi (276 to 414 kPa): ¦ Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary. ¦ Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill after heavy usage. ¦ If your refrigerator has a water filter, it may further reduce the water pressure when used in conjunction with a reverse osmosis system. Remove the water filter. If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, insured, qualified plumber.

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Bill for Model Number Estate Side by Side TS22AW

Water dispenser stopped working years ago. Ice maker would freeze up in the back of the fridge and water would leak out. Would clean out the frozen piece and it would work for a couple days before it would freeze again. Today, decided to see if other people have my problem. Everything was saying you need a new water inlet valve. Looks easy enough to replace. Do you think this is the problem? If it is, I want to make sure I order the right part. My fridge is rather old. Not sure how old because it came with the house and I have been here 15 years. I know it was fairly new model when I moved in. Thanks for your help.

1 Answer

Hello Bill, If the fill tube freezes up, the issue is caused by a water valve closing too slowly. This can be caused by low water pressure to the valve, (since the water valve is closed by water pressure only), or a bad water valve. As far as the low water pressure goes, you should check the water supply. Turn the water off and dis-connect the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Put the water line into a bucket or plastic trash can and turn the water back on. If the water pressure is sufficient, the water valve 4318046 will require replacement. If the water dribbles out, you should check the water line for crimps and if a saddle valve was used for the installation, it should be removed to see if it is a self tapping saddle valve. If it is, the pierced hole in the water line will need to be drilled out to 1/4 inch. The same valve can be reused as long as it doesn't leak. (Be aware also, if you pull the saddle valve off, the water to the home should be turned off and pressure bled off first).

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1 Answer

Hello Mark, You may want to check to see if your fill tube for the icemaker is frozen. If the tube is frozen then you would want to clear the ice from fill tube. If no ice is in the fill tube you may want to check the motor on icemaker to see if the wheel pins are broken. If the pins are broken then it will not spin to let the water come in and you will need to replace ice module W10190935. Also check the back of the module to make sure that there are no burnt terminals. If there are you would also need to replace module. You can test the water valve with icemaker cycling to see if you are getting 120vac when the icemaker calls for water. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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