Andrew November 15, 2014 for Model Number LE7680XSW1 My Whirlpool dryer wasn't working so I went on the internet to find out what was wrong. I checked and cleaned the vent and then the checked all the sensors. I found out that the thermal cut-off was no good using a multi-meter. I ordered the replacement kit for my dryer and replaced both thermal and hi-limit sensors and the dryer worked fine for about 3 loads of laundry. I checked the sensors and the new thermal cut-off tripped again? Could it be a bad thermal cut-off?
1 Answer Hello Andrew, The only thing that will open a thermal fuse is high temperatures. In light of this fact there are only a limited amount of things that can cause them to blow. Missing seals in the unit allowing the heat to be recirculated instead of ducted out, running the dryer in a small room with the door closed, (with no louvers in the door), an excessively long exhaust duct or too many turns in it, or a clogged or crimped (less than 4 inch diameter) exhaust duct can cause this issue. Even a 2 foot section of flexible ducting be hind the unit that crimps off when the dryer is slid back against the wall can cause the issue. While a bad thermal cut-off is possible, it is not a common issue. Read More...
Joseph October 11, 2014 for Model Number LE6810XSW0 Dryer run's but no heat. Checked thermal fuse and heating element, both ok. What else should I check?
1 Answer Hello Joseph! Make sure that the dryer has a full 240v going to it. The unit can run on 120v but it needs a full 240v for it to heat. Also make sure the venting to the unit and to the home is not kinked or clogged. If the voltage and venting is ok you'll need to check the thermostats 279769 and WP694674, they should read closed. Hope this helps you. Thanks. Read More...
Arnie August 30, 2014 My wire leads to the heating element are completely burned off what would be the problem?
1 Answer Arnie, There are several possibilities, the more common being : Low voltage to the dryer(under a load), loose connections at the terminal block and or the heater circuit components. A restricted or extensive vent length or overloading can cause the heater to cycle too often, and produce a temperature of 200 + dgrs. in the drum, causing the high amperage draw and wires to become soft and brittle, then burn. Read More...
Mike March 31, 2014 for Model Number LT7000XTNO ThinTwin Dryer will not start. Washer runs OK. Don't see thermo fuse listed for this model?
1 Answer Hello Mike. Check the door switch. Also, WP3403607 is the thermal fuse. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Mreeves March 21, 2014 for Model Number 96272100 The timer on my dryer is bad, and the dryer does not shut off automatically. What part number do I need?
Art B February 03, 2014 for Model Number 110 62084100 Hi. The heating element quit working on this unit. A local appliance man sold me new thermal cutoff kit for 279816. It worked a few weeks and went bad again! I typed in my model number and it said this part is not compatible. Could this be the reason for early failure? Vent is clean and free flowing! Thanks Art.
1 Answer Hello Art. No, the kit he sold you would work, but your model does call for 279769. If the vent is clear, you may need to replace the thermistor [8577274 ] on the unit. Also, make sure the element is cycling on and off during the cycle. Read More...
Stephen January 09, 2014 for Model Number 3rleq8003sw0 Thank you for your previous answer to my question"The thermal cutoff thermostat keeps blowing (the rear one of the two). On replacing the heat comes on for a few minutes and the thermostat goes again. I have even taken of the vent hose so there are nothing stopping the air flow. There is no fluff in the machine, what is causing this to happen." I have changed the cycling thermostat but the same happens, but takes a bit longer. I have done a continuity test across the heater and it seams not to be grounded and visual inspection of the coils shows that none are touching. What else can it be?
1 Answer Hello Stephen. If the cycling thermostat is new, it has to be a grounded heater. Otherwise, the heater would cycle on and off. In this case, it is not. Read More...
Dennis B December 07, 2013 for Model Number Kenmore 110.86873800 (68738) My dryer has low, medium and high heat settings but the temperature is the same on all 3 settings now, high. What part would have to fail to cause this. I have previously replaced the thermal cutoff kit on the heat box and the heating element. Thanks, Dennis Becker
1 Answer Dennis, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty cycling thermostat WP694674 not allowing the unit to cycle the temp properly. Read More...
Rob December 02, 2013 for Model Number Kenmore Elite model # 110.60982990 Does the Thermal Cut-Off KitOEM include the thermostat and the thermal fuse ?
1 Answer Rob, Yes the thermal cut off kit 279769 comes with the hi limit thermostat and the thermal fuse. Read More...
Pyara November 20, 2013 for Model Number 11067902791 Recently I have replaced thermal cutoff twice. I have checked vent, heater every thing tests good. Why the thermal cut off is failing repeatedly? I read from question answers to check cycling switch, where it located and how do I test it?
1 Answer Hello Pyara, The only thing that will open a thermal fuse is temperature. For this reason, I have to assume the exhaust duct is clogged or crimped. It has to have a full 4 inch diameter opening from the back of the dryer to the atmosphere, (outside of the home). If it is too long with too many turns, this will cause the issue also. There is a slight possibility of a drum seal leaking, but to blow the thermal fuse twice this quickly, the drum seal would practically have to be missing. This still points to the exhaust duct. Read More...