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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Fuse (Disposable, One Time Fuse) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024936
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3390719

The Thermal Fuse is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. It is a critical safety component designed to protect the dryer from overheating by blowing and cutting off power if the temperature exceeds safe limits. This disposable, one-time fuse is essential for preventing potential fire hazards and ensuring the appliance operates within safe temperatures.

Symptoms of a bad Thermal Fuse include:

  • The dryer not starting or suddenly stopping during a cycle
  • No heat being produced while the dryer is running
  • Unexplained cessation of all dryer functions

Causes of a bad thermal fuse can stem from restricted airflow due to lint buildup, a malfunctioning heating element that causes excessive temperatures, or other electrical issues within the dryer.

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermal Fuse (Disposable, One Time Fuse) (Part Number: OEM18024936)

1 Answer

Hello Charles. No, you need to remove the front panel and tighten the pulley back onto the shaft of the blower wheel. Use some loctite to secure the pulley and re-install the belt onto the unit. Make sure power is disconnected while doing the repair.

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Jean for Model Number cem2760kq1

This is Whirlpool commercial gas dryer with coin box installed. It suddently stopped working. The outlet on wall has power, and the dryer end of the power cord did get power on dryer. After we put coin in, the light won't come on at all. Just seems the dryer did not get any electrical power at all. After reading all of the online answers, we would like to check thermal fuse as our first step. But we can not take the back pannel out at all. After unscrew all and the back panel still stick there and does not seems lose at all. The Cabinet diagram related with this part seems the back panel is joined with the two side panels and the bottom too. Is that true? It seems I have to take all parts out to see the fuse!? what is the easy way we can find this fuse. Please Please help help with the detail how I can open the back to see the fuse !

1 Answer

Hi Jean. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. So do you have correct 240 vac to the terminal block at the back of the dryer and 120 vac from the white middle (neutral) terminal screw to both outer screw terminals L-1 Black wire and L-2 Red wires each? You need both the 120 and 240 as well. Remove the lower front kick panel and access the thermal fuse part # WP3390719. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Will. No, if the unit runs, it is not the thermal fuse WP3390719. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Nancy for Model Number KEYS850LQ0

I'm back and the dryer cycling thermostat was replaced with no luck. Still no heat. Can you describe further what you mean by unpluging the wires from the heater and testing to see where we are losing power from? We have metered the incoming power and are getting a reading of a total of 240 volts. Do you mean disconnect the wires to the heating element and test it there. What results should we be looking for when we test? Thanks so much for your help. This is the best website ever. If we have to replace the thermal fuse, what is the best way to get to it? Do I have to remove the drum?

1 Answer

Hello Nancy, What the technician who answered your first question meant is that if you disconnect one wire from the heating element, you can determine which leg of voltage has been dropped,(L1 or L2). This can be invaluable information when no obvious signs of failure are present such as a burned element, wire, or open thermostat. When you use the wiring diagram provided on the appliance, (usually in the console or in a plastic bag inside the kick panel or inside the cabinet under the main top), knowing which leg has been dropped can lead the technician to the failed component. Usually, when the easily accessed components test good, the problem will turn out to be a timer or a centrifugal switch that is made in the motor assembly. When testing like this, you should be very careful as there are electrical shock hazards around every corner. Also you should use ground as a test reference point. If you read 120Vac on the wire you disconnected to ground, test to the terminal it was removed from and there is supposed to be the other leg of 120Vac present at that point. Using this as a starting point, you can use the wiring diagram to trace the circuit back to the failed component. When you test on one side and get no voltage to ground, then go to the other side of the failed component, the voltage will disappear. Normally if the thermal fuse is bad, the unit will not start and run even with no heat.

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1 Answer

Kathy, Very good, you're on the right track, if the thermal fuse "opened" due to a temperature issue, it would open the voltage circuit to the motor and the dryer would not start and run, but would program. A faulty door switch WPW10201785 could create the same situation, so you may want to check it, but it's most likely a thermal fuse issue. Good Luck and Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Nancy. Test and make sure there is 240 volts coming to the dryer and the unit is not on air fluff. If you replace the cycling thermostat and the unit still does not heat. You will need to unplug the wires from the heater and test and see where you are loosing voltage from. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Joe, The first thing to check, is 240 VAC at the terminal block on the back of the dryer and any possible loose or damaged wiring there. The thermal fuse you have listed, controls power to the motor, not the heater. You want to recheck the hi limit switch and thermal fuse on the heater assembly 279769 and wiring at that location, if you haven't already, then the cycling thermostat 279769. From there we're getting into a motor or a timer, but we need to check the other components first. Thanks and Good Luck

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